Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i recently purchased a 1996 s2 r33 gts-t. Im soon to be installing a aftermarket FMIC (proberly Just Jap).

Can any guys who have installed a intercooler kit who have a stock series 2 front bar please write up or show pictures (woulb be better) of what had to be cut, moved or removed completly.

Thankyou

p.s. please no chit chat, just info and other helpful tips or pictures. :D

post-33678-1191223019_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187466-r33-intercooler-installation/
Share on other sites

You will have to cut the black plastic bit out of the mouth of the front bar.Cut a hole under your washer bottle for the pipe to come through.But if i were you i would get a dump/front pipe before doing an intercooler.

search the tutorial forum section, theres a guide for the ARC kit (the one that pipes into stock positions, pipe pulls a 180 on the cold side and loops back underneath) and also one for the Hybrid (similar to Just Jap kit) so just search around. From memory though the Just Jap ones require trimming of the fan blades, cutting under washer bottle and trimming of the front reo bar.

heres a guide to where you'll need to cut the hole, under the washer bottle that i ripped from the other thread:

post-13452-1191224204_thumb.jpg

you'll need to cut out the front reo bar in 2 places for the fmic to fit up to 2 existing holes on it (you'll see them when you take the bar off).

ive seen plenty of s2 installs that dont need the front bar to be hacked into with the JJ kits.

its the series 1 bars that need butchering.

I noticed there are two small items i think they are the horns in front of the radiator behind the front bar, do they need to be relocated? does the bar behind the front bar need to be cut to fit the cooler or compeltly removed?

I did look at the two guides, they wernt much help. The Arc kit guide was great, but im not using that kit, so i need to now for a JJ kit. Does the washer bottle need to be re-located? dose the front intrusion bar need to be cut into or removed altogether.

If you cna find any other links for install. please put them up :D

yeah i just installed mine and haven't put the horns back on yet not sure where a good spot is yet, I got mine in without hacking the reo also I hacked my thermo fan and front bar lights instead eek!

post-36364-1191227402_thumb.jpg

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

Got any pics of it all installed? wot did u do with ur washer fluid bottle?

yeah i just installed mine and haven't put the horns back on yet not sure where a good spot is yet, I got mine in without hacking the reo also I hacked my thermo fan instead eek!

I installed the JJ kit on my s2. No trimming of fan or moving horns. Have to cut the centre section of bar out, a little out of sides of bar to allow room for pipes and cut a little bit of plastic bracket off washer bottle if you have to. I also got my mate to weld on a nipple for the boost line. Quite simple, just take your time cutting the front bar as you don't want to cut too much at once. I'm happy with the kit, looks awesome! :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...