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Its going to be fairly hard to get a smooth power delivery when that thing comes on boost, might be able to play with the EBC and get it to come on boost slower smoothing it out a bit at a slight loss of power.

Hmm, yeh don't really know how to operate the EBC yet, other than changing boost settings! lol so I assume you can put boost on different gears or something like that? But really I am not after high KW or anything, I want a car that drives well on the streets! :whoops:

Its going to be fairly hard to get a smooth power delivery when that thing comes on boost, might be able to play with the EBC and get it to come on boost slower smoothing it out a bit at a slight loss of power.

Only certain EBC's have that ability, I know my profec e-01 has a gain setting. The higher the number, the slower the turbo reaches boost threshold, this also good for reducing the risk of boost spike. (highly recommended for 14psi+ applications)

I guess the report wasn't too good. heh

HAHAHHAHA :):rofl:

Thats the carsale ad that I bought it from!! He hasn't had the time to take off the ad yet as he hasn't got access to a computer! :rofl::)

Taking it in for a full service this week, so I'll see how it goes! :thumbsup:

Hey nice buy dude. Very nice car.

Welcome to the forums.

Take it to a workshop and get it tuned. If it was tuned to run on 18psi, and you're running 10psi it may be using more petrol on lower boost. For the same amount of rev's it could be dumping as much petrol as was needed when it was running 18psi at any given point in the rev range.

I know if I run 14psi on my car and drive off boost in traffic I use more petrol per km than if I run 18psi and run a few laps Eastern Creek or OP.

Hey nice buy dude. Very nice car.

Welcome to the forums.

Take it to a workshop and get it tuned. If it was tuned to run on 18psi, and you're running 10psi it may be using more petrol on lower boost. For the same amount of rev's it could be dumping as much petrol as was needed when it was running 18psi.

I know if I run 14psi on my car and drive off boost in traffic I use more petrol per km than if I run 18psi and run a few laps Eastern Creek or OP.

Yeh, thanks mate! :)

Ahhh, thats interesting, I have pretty much been running lowest setting the whole time... so do you think I should tune it for more low boost settings, if I intend to use it around 10-15?

Oh yeh, finally I have a bit more clue of what the PowerFC is saying... :laughing-smiley-014: I get a knock of 1 on idle... and on boost 2nd gear at around 6000RPM I get a knock of 10-14... looking at the EBC boost starts to kick in 4,000RPM :-o !! and goes pretty much to redline

Yeh, thanks mate! :)

Ahhh, thats interesting, I have pretty much been running lowest setting the whole time... so do you think I should tune it for more low boost settings, if I intend to use it around 10-15?

Oh yeh, finally I have a bit more clue of what the PowerFC is saying... :laughing-smiley-014: I get a knock of 1 on idle... and on boost 2nd gear at around 6000RPM I get a knock of 10-14... looking at the EBC boost starts to kick in 4,000RPM :-o !! and goes pretty much to redline

The turbo you've got is more efficient at higher boost though, isn't it?

Knock 10-14 is acceptable. >30, jump off the go pedal.

Basically the best idea is to have the boost set to what is safe for your engine, then tune to suit, and then use your right foot to control how much boost you use.

For example, if you tune your car for 14psi, and then drop max boost to 7psi, all that means is when you've got your foot flat and you're reving out, your injector duty cycle at any given RPM will be the same as if there was more air being pushed through. Which means you'll be running rich. If that makes sense.

The turbo you've got is more efficient at higher boost though, isn't it?

Knock 10-14 is acceptable. >30, jump of the go pedal.

Basically the best idea is to have the boost set to what is safe for your engine, then tune to suit, and then use your right foot to control how much boost you use.

For example, if you tune your car for 14psi, and then drop max boost to 7psi, all that means is when you've got your foot flat and you're reving out, your injector duty cycle at any given RPM will be the same as if there was more air being pushed through. Which means you'll be running rich. If that makes sense.

Yeh, I think the turbo is capable of 30psi, lol but cuz I am not sure what internals its got, I would asssume its stock internals, so wouldn't be too good if I run it on 15-18 for daily?

Oh and that makes perfect sense, I was actually wondering why I was smelling so much petrol when I give it some!! and I thought it was out of tune badly... but now it seems, I am running too low boost for the tune... I believe it was tune for 18. Gonna take it for a dyno as well this week to check if the A/R is all good.

d00dz - thanks for the link! much appreciated mate! :)

congrats mate, that is neat and a very good price.. im pretty sure u wont find one with thos mods for that price.. congrats..

the shuddering is almost 100% the front brake discs. get them checked out...

Car is at Bel at the moment, just got a call today saying a compression test was done showing from what I heard 150 or thereabouts on all 6 cylinders...

Should get dyno charts on Friday or so.. :thumbsup:

Hey nice buy dude. Very nice car.

Welcome to the forums.

Take it to a workshop and get it tuned. If it was tuned to run on 18psi, and you're running 10psi it may be using more petrol on lower boost. For the same amount of rev's it could be dumping as much petrol as was needed when it was running 18psi at any given point in the rev range.

I know if I run 14psi on my car and drive off boost in traffic I use more petrol per km than if I run 18psi and run a few laps Eastern Creek or OP.

It shouldn't do that. There's something wrong with your tune Wil. The amount of fuel put in is based on the airflow. Less boost, less air, less fuel.

The turbo you've got is more efficient at higher boost though, isn't it?

Knock 10-14 is acceptable. >30, jump off the go pedal.

Basically the best idea is to have the boost set to what is safe for your engine, then tune to suit, and then use your right foot to control how much boost you use.

For example, if you tune your car for 14psi, and then drop max boost to 7psi, all that means is when you've got your foot flat and you're reving out, your injector duty cycle at any given RPM will be the same as if there was more air being pushed through. Which means you'll be running rich. If that makes sense.

I had 189 knock the other day on the Wisemans cruise. 30 is nothing. Above 60 on more than an isolated occasion is cause for slight concern. Less than that is nothing.

BTW, knock values are the subject of a bit of debate, this is only my opinion. Obviously Wil is a big softy and I am a massive hard arse.

I had 189 knock the other day on the Wisemans cruise. 30 is nothing. Above 60 on more than an isolated occasion is cause for slight concern. Less than that is nothing.

BTW, knock values are the subject of a bit of debate, this is only my opinion. Obviously Wil is a big softy and I am a massive hard arse.

Don't you have a built engine though?

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