Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking at buying a 260RS from japan, its quite heavily modded. What i wanna know can anyone recommend somewhere to get it complied? It will need a few parts swapped over to stock for sure. Im in WA. Most people i have spoken to are not interested, but i wanted to try some more before i gave up.

thanks

neil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187758-compliance-question/
Share on other sites

im looking at buying a 260RS from japan, its quite heavily modded. What i wanna know can anyone recommend somewhere to get it complied? It will need a few parts swapped over to stock for sure. Im in WA. Most people i have spoken to are not interested, but i wanted to try some more before i gave up.

thanks

neil

it could be compied interstate if you want ie shipped direct to there then transported to wa .i used nismo in qld and john there was excelent and saved me a lot of heartburn and dollars toboot.from what i have heard some compliance place over there is verry dodgy anyway regards mike

Any chance it is the one on Jspec with twin HKS GTSS turbos and rebuilt engine?

You maybe pushed to get it complied

Try Phil at IAMSHE on the gold coast

yeh thats the one.

Ive tried the 2 WA guys no luck.

Mite email these guys you have mentioned.

thanks muchly for the help guys!!

don't even bother trying to get it complied here in WA. I have a lot of respect for the new guy on the block.......

and I might just leave it at that, but yeah, get it complied interstate, you will save time and money.

this is probly a real noob question...

If i get it complied over east, they have to put stock parts on it etc. Do they license it over there? or do i still need to do it over here? If i do it here, the car has stock stuff now not the nice after market stuff? what happens there?

sorry if its stupid, i just get dumb answers from people over here, its begging to be a pain allready.

when i got my stag it was qld rego all i had to do take papers in to the vic-roads office and they changed it over to vic rego didnt have to get a roadworthy done or anything all they did was checked the vin plate to see if it matched and i drove away with vic reg and plates, only other thing i had to do was send the qld rego label back with a changeover form that i got from vicroads office and i was sent a cheque for the balance of the qld rego bout 2 weeks later.

we got ours complianced over east - and in our particular instance they did not register it over there.

the car arrived here with no plates and we needed to get a temporary permit to drive it around

( only to workshops/ pits etc )

my take on it is.. get the car complianced and returned to a state that can pass pits. Put it over the pits and depending on WHAT mods your going to put back on , just put em back on!

bear in mind you have to take the risk ( as everyone does ) that if you get pulled over and yellow stickered your going to have to revert it back to how it was after compliance.

if you want to talk over the phone I am more than willing to - just PM me and I will give you my number.

I am not claiming to be a know all guru - but I might be able to help

Mods such as coil overs will prob get over the pits as long as the car is not stupidly low.

really depends on what the mods in question are.

this is probly a real noob question...

If i get it complied over east, they have to put stock parts on it etc. Do they license it over there? or do i still need to do it over here? If i do it here, the car has stock stuff now not the nice after market stuff? what happens there?

sorry if its stupid, i just get dumb answers from people over here, its begging to be a pain allready.

dont give up too easily . but in the same breath you need to make an educated and informed decision

Hope that helps

low mount turbos will be no issue and i only see big lumpy cams or aftermarket ecu as possible issues when going over pits in WA. The ecu is ok as long as the pits dont see it and u dont mention it has one :happy:

WOW!! i like it when you talk dirty man!! :thumbsup:

yeah i would of thaught i could sneak over the turbo's, ecu and stuff. I dont mind the fact of risking a sticker everytime i get pulled over, i dont live in perth and the cops wouldnt know what the hell it is where i live.

...... i dont live in perth and the cops wouldnt know what the hell it is where i live.

Most of the cops in Perth don't know what the hell a Stagea is anyway.

I was caught in a police shut down of the last Ignition DVD Hotspot and i was the only one of about 80 cars that got waved through the exit without a breathaliser or licence check :D

oh and two things that might cause you major hassles.

1) - they tried to fail us outright on the dark tint of the rear windows and the rear of the car

so we asked them to get the testing unit out and we passed.

what we DID fail on is the fact that the car did not have an immobiliser.

So BE WARNED - make sure your car has a working immobiliser ( and test it yourself too )

if it does not have an immobiliser your going to need to get one fitted BEFORE you go over the pits.

good luck matey!

Got mine complied at Nizmo in Queensland... then sent by rail across to Perth where I took it to the Pits at Whelshpool to get licenced.... No drama's, the bloke actually knew what it was, had no issues with the dark glass and he only picked up that I had a headlight out which he said just change the bulb mate.... he asked if it had an immobiliser to which I said yep and that was it...

So yeah you wont have any dramas provided the guys at the pits dont pick on your mods ( it will be the cosmetic ones they can easily see )....

Edited by MrGTST
Most of the cops in Perth don't know what the hell a Stagea is anyway.

I was caught in a police shut down of the last Ignition DVD Hotspot and i was the only one of about 80 cars that got waved through the exit without a breathaliser or licence check :)

haha nice work

Got mine complied at Nizmo in Queensland... then sent by rail across to Perth where I took it to the Pits at Whelshpool to get licenced.... No drama's, the bloke actually knew what it was, had no issues with the dark glass and he only picked up that I had a headlight out which he said just change the bulb mate.... he asked if it had an immobiliser to which I said yep and that was it...

So yeah you wont have any dramas provided the guys at the pits dont pick on your mods ( it will be the cosmetic ones they can easily see )....

how much was freight to wa as im getting my stagea from qland

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...