Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there.

Got the Fc datalogit, laptop, LM1 hooked up to fc datalogit, and a apexi power FC.

Now I need to know how the Af should be..

Could someone rougfly point out what AF ratio I should aim for, layed out on the 20 x 20 inj map. Not each map point, just say the first 5 x 5 should be around XX, then up to 10 x 10 it should be around XX..

Thanks.

Best Regards

Ronni

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187834-newbie-help-to-map-apexi-fc/
Share on other sites

the first 10 rows should be aiming at about 14.8:1

After that, I'd start richening up the mixture row by row until you can get the last line the car uses to run about 12:1.

I'll get a picture and show you in a sec

it all depends on the engine and setup that your running.

some cars need to run a little richer to run correctly on lower load points.

I find that some cars can run fine at 14.7 on cruise across the whole board but some cars will run like a dog and will need to be richen'ed up to around 13.6...

For AFR on boost it also depends on how modified the car is. If you have a stockish car then 12 afr is fine... if your pushing alot of power then its good to run it in the low 11's to keep the engine cool.

run it in the low 11's to keep the engine cool.

I disagree with that statement.

I'd still run a flat 12:1, as any lower starts to rob you of power an is just rumming the engine too rich. If the car is overheating, then there is something wrong with the Coolant system.

I'm running 13:1 afrs with water methanol injection. Engine sits at about 79 degrees after a few hard runs.

I'd only go richer if its pinging and taking timing out doesn't stop it in that area, but I have never come across this so I don't you should either.

this is what I run without WMI as promised:

targetafrs.jpg

Why do people allways run their cars on the edge to get max power at the expense of reliablility ?

Running a engine hard on .85's can work yes. But what if there is a bad batch of fuel in the question ? or a fuel pump starts to fail a little or a fuel reg does something silly it could change the afrs to .87 .88's on a highly tuned engine after a short time you will have a broken engine.

I like to see mine running at .80's and .82's when im pushin 25psi and 360rkw.. sure i could bag a extra 20kw if i leaned it off but i ike my engine and i want it to last.

More power is not allways better.. reliability is where its at as far as i am concerned

If you have a really good quality fuel system and EGT's in each cyl to make sure every cyl is getting the exact amount of air and fuel as each other and you are 100% sure everything is working correctly then sure run it lean...

Using water changes everything and you can run it leaner.

I disagree with that statement.

I'd still run a flat 12:1, as any lower starts to rob you of power an is just rumming the engine too rich. If the car is overheating, then there is something wrong with the Coolant system.

I'm running 13:1 afrs with water methanol injection. Engine sits at about 79 degrees after a few hard runs.

I'd only go richer if its pinging and taking timing out doesn't stop it in that area, but I have never come across this so I don't you should either.

this is what I run without WMI as promised:

targetafrs.jpg

Edited by Guilt-Toy

well, of course your going to run that kind of richness at that power and boost, but that kind of boost is probably too high? Have you considered looking at a turbo that provided more flow? Or maybe some cams?

Remember, boost is bad, its a measure on how much the engine is resisting the air your trying to push into it.

But if your talking 11.2:1 afrs, I still thats simply too low for even your setup. I'd look at 11.5 - 11.8. All you need to do is watch the knock, and I bet if tuned properly, there wouldn't be any at all any way.

Its not the fuel (to an extent) you should be focussing on when you want the engine to last, its timing. Pull the timing out if you think its going to ping \ blow up \ be running on edge.

Edited by The Mafia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
×
×
  • Create New...