Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, so in my car from a stand still i am in 1st and i accelerate 100% throttle and then i hit 4-5,000 rpm and the power coming on just freezes but the boost goes up and the exhaust starts popping. If i take foot of a bit say lik down to 60 - 70% throttle and then ease it back on it over comes this problem momenteraly it also does this is 2nd. As you can see this seriously hinders the performance and you help would be appreciated. I think it is a coilover problem and i have read and search and found other topics that seeeem similar but not totally. the mechanic noticed it to but said would look at it next service i would just like to know what the problem is before i go so iam more familiar with it when i take the car and know what the possiblities could be.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem , seems with your mods you are sufferring from overfueling, you may need to look at the apexi neo or SAFC II to fix this up, or it could be your coilpacks. Apexi neo can be picked up for around 400 bucks and a dyno tune for it will set you back about 240.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392402
Share on other sites

When was the last time you changed your spark plugs? Look at replacing them first if they're old.

Then I would recommend changing your O2 sensor if you've never done it (fuel filter couldn't hurt either). Should only cost ya about $110ish.

I used to have some slight popping whilst driving around. After changing those two things it no longer does it, and now I get much better fuel economy. win win.

If you still have problems then start looking at coilpacks and spark plugs gapping.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392747
Share on other sites

ok, so in my car from a stand still i am in 1st and i accelerate 100% throttle and then i hit 4-5,000 rpm and the power coming on just freezes but the boost goes up and the exhaust starts popping. If i take foot of a bit say lik down to 60 - 70% throttle and then ease it back on it over comes this problem momenteraly it also does this is 2nd. As you can see this seriously hinders the performance and you help would be appreciated. I think it is a coilover problem and i have read and search and found other topics that seeeem similar but not totally. the mechanic noticed it to but said would look at it next service i would just like to know what the problem is before i go so iam more familiar with it when i take the car and know what the possiblities could be.

Thanks in advance!

f**k da coilova's brooo

just get da springs chopped and full deck it out brooooo

also, dun forget da spinning chromies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392857
Share on other sites

Sounds similar to a problem I have been having.

My advice is to replace spark plugs, O2 sensor and then coil pack. In that order. :woot:

There are ways to check if coils are giving you grief, probably in that list of posts from govich. Check em out.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392989
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
    • Nah, the OEM CAI pipe is still installed behind the bumper, it is about 5" x 3" oval at the engine side, tapering down to a 3" pipe behind the bumper where it gets all the ambient air it needs Engine side of radiator support OEM intake pipe "oval hole" that is right in front of the filter My OEM NC1 CAI pipe: From NC2 onwards, below pic, they come slightly smaller at 2.75" diameter with corrugations and a resonance chamber to reduce intake noise, lucky for me my NC1 has the bigger noisy one, LOL   Basically, the "sealed" airbox will just get ambient air from a 3" pre filter intake tube that is the same size, 3" as the rest of the intake pipe post filter, and if a 3" intake isn't big enough to flow enough air for 150 killerwasps then there are other issues The whole intake is basically the same length as OEM, but it is now about 30% bigger from the airbox back through to the new intake plenum than OEM, and the intake plenum is port matched to the head And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway Talking the the guys at MX5 Mania, it may even make a few more killerwasps as the intake isn't sucking hot air, especially off idle or when in slow traffic when it would be sucking hot air  As for the difference in IAT, I haven't logged IAT yet, as I don't currently have a OBD2 reader, but I will have a play with my thermal lazer thingie next time I take the car out to sèe how hot stuff gets under the bonnet near the intake filter prior to installing the air box, my "assumption is it has to be much better after the air box is in and sealed up compared to what it is now The aftermarket "performance" CAI elephant in the room: Aftermarket CAI intakes typically have the air filter tucked up behind the bumper, with a 2.5" intake tube (the OEM intake pipe is actually about 30% bigger than the fancy pants "aftermarket" version.....WTF), and you need to remove the bumper to service the filter, which is a PITA Like dis:    
    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
×
×
  • Create New...