Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, so in my car from a stand still i am in 1st and i accelerate 100% throttle and then i hit 4-5,000 rpm and the power coming on just freezes but the boost goes up and the exhaust starts popping. If i take foot of a bit say lik down to 60 - 70% throttle and then ease it back on it over comes this problem momenteraly it also does this is 2nd. As you can see this seriously hinders the performance and you help would be appreciated. I think it is a coilover problem and i have read and search and found other topics that seeeem similar but not totally. the mechanic noticed it to but said would look at it next service i would just like to know what the problem is before i go so iam more familiar with it when i take the car and know what the possiblities could be.

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem , seems with your mods you are sufferring from overfueling, you may need to look at the apexi neo or SAFC II to fix this up, or it could be your coilpacks. Apexi neo can be picked up for around 400 bucks and a dyno tune for it will set you back about 240.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392402
Share on other sites

When was the last time you changed your spark plugs? Look at replacing them first if they're old.

Then I would recommend changing your O2 sensor if you've never done it (fuel filter couldn't hurt either). Should only cost ya about $110ish.

I used to have some slight popping whilst driving around. After changing those two things it no longer does it, and now I get much better fuel economy. win win.

If you still have problems then start looking at coilpacks and spark plugs gapping.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392747
Share on other sites

ok, so in my car from a stand still i am in 1st and i accelerate 100% throttle and then i hit 4-5,000 rpm and the power coming on just freezes but the boost goes up and the exhaust starts popping. If i take foot of a bit say lik down to 60 - 70% throttle and then ease it back on it over comes this problem momenteraly it also does this is 2nd. As you can see this seriously hinders the performance and you help would be appreciated. I think it is a coilover problem and i have read and search and found other topics that seeeem similar but not totally. the mechanic noticed it to but said would look at it next service i would just like to know what the problem is before i go so iam more familiar with it when i take the car and know what the possiblities could be.

Thanks in advance!

f**k da coilova's brooo

just get da springs chopped and full deck it out brooooo

also, dun forget da spinning chromies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392857
Share on other sites

Sounds similar to a problem I have been having.

My advice is to replace spark plugs, O2 sensor and then coil pack. In that order. :woot:

There are ways to check if coils are giving you grief, probably in that list of posts from govich. Check em out.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187935-coilpack-issue/#findComment-3392989
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...