Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Hows it going man, I live in canada, well Quebec, I have a R32 GTR and I'm planning on doing the same thing as you but different, what I'm asking is what website or provider did you use to get your parts, because I have a bunch of Japanese and American Sites, but the trunk is carbon fiber and so is the hood and stuff, and also the lights arn't included. I have a gerneral Idea of what I'm going to do with the front, but it's the back i'm worried about, I have to cut part of the back to get the trunk to fit good. Anyways if you can give me your provider via pm or on this post would be great.

What I need to know is where you got your

R34 GTR OEM Front Marker Lights(Flashers Yellow Light?)

R34 GTR OEM Rear Tailllights

R34 GTR OEM Trunk

R34 GTR OEM Trunk brake light

R34 GTR OEM Metal behind taillights Panel

R34 GTR OEM Back up Lights

R34 GTR OEM Aluminum Hood

R34 GTR OEM non-xenon Headlights

R34 GTR OEM Rear Tailllights

Thanks again man I hope you can answer me, cuz I'm tired of googleing and stuff to find a provider, thanks

Shawn

one short word, NISSAN

.. i ordered it all through my local Nissan Dealership. I just had to find all the part numbers myself with my Nissan FAST program i have on my laptop.

Any update since? Very nice conversion. I am currently doing an entire S15 conversion on my S14, the work entailed is quite similar.

give me one sec, im just uploading more pics.

so far, the rear end is pretty much done, now the sideskirts have to be custom molded, and thats about it. trunk latch assembly is being shipped... its one damn big job. not for the faint of heart, or someone with a limited budget, thats for sure.

I know it isnt much of a big deal in Aussie, but Here in Canada, the R34 isnt legal, and isnt on the street. This will be one of the only cars in Canada that resembles an R34 At all... should fool alot of ppl at least on the highway and passing by.

worth every penny :thanks:

Image048-1.jpg

Image047-2.jpg

Image046-2.jpg

Image001-2.jpg

Image045-2.jpg

looks good.

The rear is much lower than a real R34, as is the R33 rear.

This is taking a very long time, must be killing you. do you spend every day on it? or is it a side project?

looks good.

The rear is much lower than a real R34, as is the R33 rear.

This is taking a very long time, must be killing you. do you spend every day on it? or is it a side project?

I think the rear was level with the body line... the r32 is more straight so we had to contour the rear to match.

the r34's body line starts rising near the side mirror and goes higher and higher till the end, but using that shape wouldnt suit on the r32, cause the tail end would start to point on an upwards angle and look even worse.

believe me, i want this done asap, but not 100% a priority

Yeah. Downside of a 34 anyways, but it gives it its distinct look, thats why the 33 to 34 looks different to a real one cause the body all over is lower from the roof down to the rear.

Ah well, good luck (Y)

Yeah. Downside of a 34 anyways, but it gives it its distinct look, thats why the 33 to 34 looks different to a real one cause the body all over is lower from the roof down to the rear.

Ah well, good luck (Y)

thanks, its not really luck, just time.

Coming along nicely,

Panel shops rarely do their best work under the pump in my experience, and if you're spending that amount of dough you'd want them to take their time and do the job properly!

Coming along nicely,

Panel shops rarely do their best work under the pump in my experience, and if you're spending that amount of dough you'd want them to take their time and do the job properly!

well the price would probably be alot more if I told them to hurry up, and focus this as their only project until its done. but bumps in the road happen, and things go on a standstill while new parts must be ordered to make the install as seemless and OEM as possible.

my new website will be online once the car is completed WWW.MWR34.COM

it will be the home of the complete build gallery, the photoshoot gallery, details of car, also this car will be for sale.

And future build plans for your custom-made MWR34 will be available. lets hope this turns out nice.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Tell me what you think..

I took the dash from my Bayside Blue crashed parts car, and now making my own custom modified / fiberglass'd Dash board.

From the pictures I hope you can see where im going with it.

DAY 1

Dash cleaned and degreased

Image002-4.jpg

closer

Image003-3.jpg

guidelines and Center vent safely removed

Image004-4.jpg

closer

Image005-4.jpg

BAM!!! Cut off

Image007-3.jpg

Image006-4.jpg

Upper cluster tray

Image009-3.jpg

Back together

Image010-2.jpg

Image011-3.jpg

general look will be like this:

template.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...