Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im goin to get my ps soon and in nsw p platers cant drive turbo, i currently have a n14 nissan pulsar sr20 wich goes alrite, but im lookin for a r32 i dont know much about them how much kw do they have at the fly and do they go any good? is it worth getin a non turbo skyline thanx for all ur help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188327-r32-non-turbo-any-good/
Share on other sites

good on fuel, look good, handle well etc etc. not gonna be a power house, but i figure unless ur gonna get something thats actually fast no point in worrying about how fast a slow car is. just drive it, enjoy it and if u feel like going fast do some handling mods and u wont be so worried about power.

R32 GTS's (RB20DE 165bhp/119kw flywheel) are great.. I have one as a daily driver never had any problems.. I'm sure there aren't any in australia anyway but stay away from GTE's as they are slow as all hell.. (RB20E 130bhp/96kw flywheel)

Hey mate i used to own an Sr20 pulsar. They are a eqully as quick as non-turbo R32s. It just depends what you prefer, FWD/RWD hatch/coupe etc. Also think about insurance as well. But like nisskid said a slow car can be a bucket load of fun with some good suspension mods.

i thought they had 116kw at the fly but ye i dont know much about skylines are there any common problems with them body and engine wise? ye well im kinda sick of front wheel drive ahaha there no fun, i read that there are rb25 r32 are there many in aus? thanx for the replys guys

Hey mate i used to own an Sr20 pulsar. They are a eqully as quick as non-turbo R32s. It just depends what you prefer, FWD/RWD hatch/coupe etc. Also think about insurance as well. But like nisskid said a slow car can be a bucket load of fun with some good suspension mods.

how come u went from pulsar to skyline?

R32 GTS's (RB20DE 165bhp/119kw flywheel) are great.. I have one as a daily driver never had any problems.. I'm sure there aren't any in australia anyway but stay away from GTE's as they are slow as all hell.. (RB20E 130bhp/96kw flywheel)

or worse yet, the GXi with CA18i :)

You do get RB25 R32's, but they are a lot more rare. They are only the much later model and not many were made compared to the RB20's. If you can get a 25, that would be awesome. Got a little more torque and low down power. The RB20 is still good tho. Both engines are built strong :thumbsup:

how come u went from pulsar to skyline?

Just time for a change, and wanted a bit more power. And now i can actually afford to own a turbo car and modd it. But i miss the pulsar was heapsa fun around the twisties. Join: www.pulsar.org.au good bunch of ppl

after having owned an R32 GTS, I can tell you they are lots of fun to drive around as a daily. I had extractors, an exhaust and a pod on mine, some stiffer lowered suspension and it was awesome fun to drive around in. The RB25DE's aren't as revvy as the RB20 (longer stroke etc) so for an N/A I'd say not as much entertainment value. That said an R32 GTS25 is the easiest of the R32's to convert to an RB25DET/RB30DET later down the track when you're off the P's.

fo sheezy... just make sure the engine's serviced regularly and it should give you no grief. mine also had a remapped Dr Drift ECU to make the most of 98 octane fuel and the exhaust/intake mods, plus change the REV limit and remove speed restrictor.

got 87rwkw before and 105rwkw after from memory... that was with mods to exhaust and intake, so can't say for sure exactly how much just the remap got me. not exactly mindblowing, but good enough for a 2.0L N/A from 1992. think R32 GTS's were supposed to get 114kw at the fly standard... so theoretically I should have gotten 97rwkw with a 15% drivetrain loss.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...