Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol @ Madaz walking with a petty can. At least the weather is nice. :thumbsup:

I've been getting ~450km's to 50litres the last couple of tanks.

First couple of tanks after the tune got ~400-420 ish.

Most I've fit in the tank is 57litres but the red light had been on for quite some time. As soon as the red light comes on its a 50-52litre fill.

Bezender,

PFC FTW.

Grab one from Nengun for $778 Delivered and have Shaun/Boostworx fit it. :happy:

http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-controller

Take advantage of the strong AUD.

If you didnt have $778 for a PFC, what sort of help would the SAFC be? seeing as second hand ones go for about $200-250, would there really be any noticeable difference in economy for a fairly stock 33 running cat back exhaust and 10psi on turbotech controller?

lBezender,

PFC FTW.

Grab one from Nengun for $778 Delivered and have Shaun/Boostworx fit it. :yes:

http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-hand-controller

Take advantage of the strong AUD.

hope the dollar holds out for a bit... me = poor

If you didnt have $778 for a PFC, what sort of help would the SAFC be? seeing as second hand ones go for about $200-250, would there really be any noticeable difference in economy for a fairly stock 33 running cat back exhaust and 10psi on turbotech controller?

Buy cheap, pay twice.

By the time you install and tune the SAFC it will probably be as much as the PFC just to buy, so if you can afford that, buy it now and wait until you can afford to have it tuned IMO.

Buy cheap, pay twice.

By the time you install and tune the SAFC it will probably be as much as the PFC just to buy, so if you can afford that, buy it now and wait until you can afford to have it tuned IMO.

my car was re-maped/tuned just before i bought it, how much does it cost to have that done? (thinking about extending the loan i got for my car a bit :worship: )

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...