Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This might sound stupid bit can i get a defect for a glovebox that will not open :yes: ? im thinking of making a carbon gauge and boost controler holder that fits inside the glovebox

my glove box has a has a facade that fits inside it, and it holds my water temp gauge, oil temp gauge. and has a spot for my ebc.. there is no room to put anything but a small piece of paper... went thru regency with it in there. it does open, but is essentually useless for anything else.

Changing the glovebox to hold the boosat controller isnt a problem, but having a boost controller is. They will argue that increasing the boost may chjange the emmissions, and hence is illegal (basically any mod that gives you more power could be interperated as changing emissions and hence a breach and defectable)

I know they are illegal and can be seen in the engine bay aswell but for some cops that dont know what they are looking for in the engine bay but know what to look for in the cabin. I thought it would be a good idea to place the controler in the glovebox and maybe have it locked and if i get pulled over ad say iv lost the key lol but can i still get defected for saying the glovebox wont open?

I have tucked mine up infront of the fuse box, you cant see it unless you open the fuse panel.

How often do you use the boost controler? mine is pretty much set and forget (I leave it on low boost, and only open the panel and select high boost on special occasions)

should b fine, similar to what i have, but mine is poxy black plastic :blush: ... im not keen on having boost controller on display, its no longer in there, but thats just me

Talking to a few people I hear regency have installed their emissions tester (though I would prefer external confirmation on this). If this is the case potentially boost controllers and non standard turbos could be considered legal if you could pass the emissions test.

In NSW (where people have public access to such testing centres) tuned cars have gotten through the emissions test, but in SA we don’t have any workshops with the gear to do the proper test.

Whilst it could be done, it would be expensive here in SA.

Edited by 4door_Sleeper

got my PC steering wheel FTMFW !!!!!!!!!

lazy ass post man did not even come to my house to drop off a note that its ready for collection, so it ended up getting sent from my local post office to the general post office in town.. went there to get ti today... (this was delivered from nsw on the 24th dec).

moral of this story... use registered mail with every fkn thing u get from ebay, this seller did not offer it, but even so i should have asked for it.

/rant over

yeah, its in the new gtr discussion forum.

had to happen sooner or later.

::EDIT::

...Looks like the UK

not f**kin likely. last i checked, the symbols on the police bike werent english.

got observation skills?

Edited by scandyflick

how is this for keen !

1029076197_04e6e37c56.jpg

"In Perú from Huánuco to Tingo Maria, where the road from the Pacific coast across the Andes finds its way towards the Amazon lowlands. This is near the top of the last mountain pass. From there, soapbox rider can enjoy a vertical 1000 meters of gravity assisted ride. As these kids help stranded truck drivers along the road, they're called bomberos (firemen). They transport drinks, food and spare parts to broken trucks."

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...