Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nah it's a manual. I'm not a fan of autos :cheers:

I think it was Troy I spoke to and he said they don't do transmissions anymore.

But if he recommended MV Automatics then he must of assumed it was auto... why would he assume that... hmm

so i know cops are doing their jobs, and im all for them doing random breath checks etc but man my heart still skips a beat when theyre behind ya and then u get the dreaded flashy lights..

Got pulled over just now (2nd time in less than a week!) with the same line of random RBT etc. No probs. Started freaking tho thinking they gonna go over my car, all i got was a.. 'nice car, seen it around etc' have a good night'. phew!

Haha, yeah got the same treatment the other night flick only for the officer to tell me my lights were too bright (Xenon's) After I told him they were factory fitted, he left me alone. Nice bloke though, got to chatting about the car and such, just goes to show there are good cops out there too :D

Hey all I need to get myself a tranny service. Boostworx don't do it but recommended MV Automatics but they only do autos so does anyone know a good place I can take the line to?

For manuals try Nizspeed (Nisspeed? SP?), just a few doors down from Morpowa at Modbury North. I know they do manuals and have experience with GTR boxes for road and track use. Its a small opperation out of a shed at the end of a row of sheds (workshops) but the guys are very helpful.

Dont forget to ask for your skylines australia discount

One step ahead of ya mate, I dropped your name and the SAU name and spoke to one of the guys and he quoted me up, but then went in there after work and spoke to Ric, top bloke, getting it all done tomorrow, BUT i mine did cost more than the SAU Group Buy as im going darker and slight mirror, but all up with a alarm he has done me a pretty good deal!!

+1 for Auto Perfection boys and girls!!

Good to hear Darren i couldn't speak more highly of Ric there for the community

with regard to being pulled over i strongly believe the very first thing that comes out your mouth determines how things go, unless he pulled you over for drifting around a corner and even then have the right attitude and you may be surprised

BUT i mine did cost more than the SAU Group Buy as im going darker and slight mirror

+1 for Auto Perfection boys and girls!!

How many squids for window tint if you dont mind me asking? need some 20% all round for the 31....

normal price for 30% was $275 group buy was a lot less but no point telling you that because its over he will do about 15% discount maybe 10% not entirely sure 20%tint is darker so that costs a little more and metal tint again cost more that's $275 is basic black tint

normal price for 30% was $275 group buy was a lot less but no point telling you that because its over he will do about 15% discount maybe 10% not entirely sure 20%tint is darker so that costs a little more and metal tint again cost more that's $275 is basic black tint

yeah right. Bit pricier than what I was hoping for....

Woot! got my money, and the 33 is off with the new owner. Little sad to see it go, but at least now I can replenish the savings account, and have some spare for a few tickle-ups for the Legnum when its on the road in a few weeks :action-smiley-069:

well im currently working on another Group Buy with a Chinese company to supply alleged OEM Nike's here is a picture of what im expecting to see next week or i see nothing and get ripped off let me know peoples thoughts if this is a goer i will be supplying these for $100 delivered

post-13315-1206618042_thumb.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...