Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

genuine nissan top rad hose was $25

Shiet... I recently replaced my top/bottom hoses that had done close to 140,000km's I replaced them with Gates hoses shortly after I bought the car.

Considering they were aftermarket they have done well. Still felt quite good but worth while replacing while it was apart.

Gates top and bottom rad hoses cost me ~$20 each. Price isn't far off genuine. What was the lower from Nissan worth?

I also refilled with Nulon Green. Top stuff. 90,000kms since I had the stuff in it last. The head hoses etc were perfectly clean.

depends whats cheaper, genuine nissan or aftermarket.

dont wanna be wasting any money of my gay engine.

Ministry of bass has the 2 piece silicon hoses for around the $80 mark iirc.. dunno how much stockies are

-D

Heyyy computer smart people, im pretty clueless when it comes to this, but I bought a new computer just now, and i want to transfer all the stuff i have on the old one over to the new one. Now i know i can do wireless networking, which ive got setup now, but i cant transfer programs can i?

The main one i need is my photoshop program - does anyone have a copy i can possibly borrow otherwise?

you need to re-install all your programs flick =(

you can copy files, but not the programs... despite what ted says

yeh, sucks i have so many programs on this computer, dont think i have the disk for them all anymore tho. Oh well, good way for me to kill the next few hours transferring everything over. New laptop is pretty cool tho, has bluray and all sorts!

hey fish,

If u want i went and saw my mate today at Edwardstown custom body repairs, said u might come in and get a quote.

Speak to Mel (bold head guy) tell him Luke sent u there. Should give u a better price.

Was also saying if the paint isnt chipped on the quarter panel it shouldnt be that bad.

Look for the black Ferrari out the front.

Its on Bennet ave at an intersection.

<---------- nismo gearknob ftw :O

i got a new one of them sittin still in its package in the shed, catn decide wether to put it on or keep the Greddy silver one :s

might wait till i get new black leathers later this week and chuck it on

DESTROY.

When I dropped the rb30det in I also replaced all hoses. From memory total set me back around 400-500. Well worth it though for piece of mind.

--------

I went with the Nismo leather knob. Slightly shortens the shifter just right and is comfortable. The 25t box has a longer throw so the Nismo shifter helps it feel a little more like the shorter throw rb20t box.

cubes it's DSTROY lol

Luke fishpaste is coming to nene & bens on sat with me to pull the Bar off and have a look whats under there damage wise

Ben your always happy to lend a hand well done xx

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
    • Plan B? Get someone to machine up a metal bush/collar/whatever it needs to be to replace the rubber? I haven't had a close look at that part recently to have a proper feel for whether that's possible. But it might be easy.
    • I do not want to install a short shifter and the only other stock throw shifter I have seen is the Nismo "Rigid shifter" for $290 So plan A is to fill it with sikaflex to stiffen it up and hope for the best
×
×
  • Create New...