Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm glad my spending money on mods is drawing to a close I think. It slides reasonably well for what it is now, works better than the sum of it's parts you might say. I reckon a clutch and maybe some sway bars is all I want mod wise now. The rest is just tyres, fuel and oil changes (and fixing shit if/when I stack it again :thumbsup:)

you have good taste, but i personally think the F4 is getting a bit long in the tooth. It certainly is a beautiful bike and one of the best Tamburini has designed but the rear needs some work, it's a tad to fat for my liking, and the headlight area needs attention. Hopefully with some cash from harley davidson they can launch the next all new model.

Also i personally find it hard to justify the extra cost for the MV over say my bike. Yes i know mine isn't as coverted or "unique" but for the money nothin beats a japanese inline 4 sports bike!

Its all opinions and tastes tho. I like the styling of the rear end of the F4 except the 4 pipes. They just look too ... "matchbox car" ... if you know what I mean. I definitely like the headlight styling. but ultimately, I bought myself the F4 Brutale, because there was no fairing to hide all that fine work into the build.

I think, for the base models, the prices are fair. Remember, you're buying an Italian bike with a Ferrari engine. A new model GSXR is $18K and the F4 1000S is $26K.

but I agree that when you look at the model range upwards ... its about $31K for the 312, no idea on the 1078 but guessing about $36K (in line with the Duc 1098), and $70K for the Tamburini.

At the end of the day, the Brutale is there to satisfy my taste for Italian machinery. I have my Suzuki TLR1000 and I prefer that bike anyday over the Brutale. I've had it 7 years now, and will have it 7 years after the Brutale is gone. Each bike/manufacturer has different qualities to offer in a motorcycle. The brutale is the girl you flirt with at parties ... the TLR is the whore you take home and bang all summer long!

:thumbsup:

didnt get my baby back today..soo hopefully tomorrow otherwise gona lose my sh*t lol

and hopefully my boost gauge arrives in the post tomrrow too

so much hoping going on now hehe

BOYS AND GIRLS SELLING YOUR CAR BE CAREFUL WHEN LETTING A PROSPECTIVE BUYER TEST DRIVE YOUR CAR!

nav_m.gifRuffls S15 Stolen!Options menu_action_down.gifuser-online.png<A href="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ruffels-m17884.html">Ruffels ipsmenu.register( "post-member-4218791", '', 'popmenubutton-new', 'popmenubutton-new-out' ); to_post_off.gif Yesterday, 05:06 PM

Post

#1

av-17884.jpg

RUFFLS

pip.gifpip.gifpip.gifpip.gifpip.gif

38.gif

Posts: 1,212

Joined: 2nd March, 2005

From: Melbourne

Car(s): 01' s15 200SX

Real Name: Mark

Trader Rating : 9

spacer.gif

Please keep an eye out for an Aus Spec 2001 S15 200sx in Pewter with number plates 'ruffls'

it was forsale and was stolen right in front of me while on a test drive...

i was out of the car for 1 second at a petrol station on todd road (the onramp to westgate bridge)

and the guy test driving the car drove off!

any information please call me on 0408 569 685 or ring 000

car was stolen at 3:30 this afternoon

thanks

-Mark

--------------------

Well, I posted a thread in the cosmetic section, but I'll put something here too, one of you guys might be able to help me out :thumbsup:

I need to get rid of this:

image039av9.th.jpgthpix.gif

Any ideas on how to go about that?

cut and polish maybe ?

autosol ? (i know its a metal polish but its magical)

Its all opinions and tastes tho. I like the styling of the rear end of the F4 except the 4 pipes. They just look too ... "matchbox car" ... if you know what I mean. I definitely like the headlight styling. but ultimately, I bought myself the F4 Brutale, because there was no fairing to hide all that fine work into the build.

I think, for the base models, the prices are fair. Remember, you're buying an Italian bike with a Ferrari engine. A new model GSXR is $18K and the F4 1000S is $26K.

but I agree that when you look at the model range upwards ... its about $31K for the 312, no idea on the 1078 but guessing about $36K (in line with the Duc 1098), and $70K for the Tamburini.

At the end of the day, the Brutale is there to satisfy my taste for Italian machinery. I have my Suzuki TLR1000 and I prefer that bike anyday over the Brutale. I've had it 7 years now, and will have it 7 years after the Brutale is gone. Each bike/manufacturer has different qualities to offer in a motorcycle. The brutale is the girl you flirt with at parties ... the TLR is the whore you take home and bang all summer long!

:)

I agree with most of what your saying except for two things, i think the pipes look horn on the f4. And the "ferrari" engine does nothing for me. My bikes mill puts out more horsepower and torque across the board, so the advantages of "Ferrari" engineering seem wasted to me.

I agree with most of what your saying except for two things, i think the pipes look horn on the f4. And the "ferrari" engine does nothing for me. My bikes mill puts out more horsepower and torque across the board, so the advantages of "Ferrari" engineering seem wasted to me.

You haven't ridden one yet have you? ;)

The engine (including the tuning) is brilliant! There is no snatchiness of the throttle whatsoever. It doesn't have mountains of power or mountains of torque, but what it does have it delivers smoothly and where the power should be. No jap bike I've ridden yet is as smooth as the F4 engines are. Thats the Ferrari influence there. The gearbox is brilliant also. Snips into gear easily, even under hard acceleration and without clutching. I've found most jap boxes clunky. Clutch feel is precise and smooth and easy to measure when powering off hard. Don't be fooled by the race for big power in bikes ... look closely at the delivery of that power to the rear rubber. Big power means nothing, if it is a pig to ride and if it upsets the handling of the bike. Even the newer jap hyper machines still are not smooth to ride. The MV is so smooth that abusing it will not upset its stability.

Oh ... and no other bike has that 'flutter' note to the exhaust like the MV :) But in the end, she's the flirt, not the whore.

Edited by RubyRS4

just got my saber boost gauge in the mail :) but just wondering there is an air filter that goes between the pressure source and the boost sensor box..do i have to put it in coz wouldnt it be a restriction and show a lower boost reading with it in???

Nah it was a delammed tyre Steve, the strands of rubber were flailing around giving the guard/door a good hiding :)

I got some wash/polish onto it and it cleared 99% of the marks away, I was pretty surprised no cutting needed.

While I was there I washed the whole car and it looks fking amazing now, for a trashed drift pig ;)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...