Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I gotta get mine replaced so I'll be lashing out for a set of RDA front slotted rotors too. Theyre not as expensive as I thought they'd be either.

-D

rda are awesome value get a full set of rotors for the same price of 2 dba

Yeah I gotta get mine replaced so I'll be lashing out for a set of RDA front slotted rotors too. Theyre not as expensive as I thought they'd be either.

-D

Just got mine off the SAU group buy, in 4 days.lol

and cheaper for 4 then buying 2 from anywhere else in town

Ben look into the group buy mate

i got a set of 4 for my 33.....$***delivered and was here in 2 weeks

so definately recommend that guy in the GB section

"edited by SLED"

I arranged it last week thru the grp buy.

-D

Seriously?! Yeah!! Slotted are a shit load better than just standard.

Improved stopping distance, improved feel, etc. I even went from a cross-drilled set to a slotted set and noticed a huge difference.

They improve braking power, basically. That and a good set of pads!

Most properly modded street cars, you'll find with slotted rotors. As well as all the HSV's and FPV's that came out the factory, and a few BMW's.

everyone going slotted?

curious, do slotted rotors go through pads faster than standard flat rotors?

Well for me Damo the slotted rotors feel a whole lot better

i havent noticed much brake pad wear but only had them in for like 4 -5 months now

plus i had to go slotted as you can as luke (enr_034) how stuffed my stock rotors were mate

Well for me Damo the slotted rotors feel a whole lot better

i havent noticed much brake pad wear but only had them in for like 4 -5 months now

plus i had to go slotted as you can as luke (enr_034) how stuffed my stock rotors were mate

if anything they make the pad last longer. they do have more bite which increases wear but the groove also assists in cleaning the brake dust off the pad and venting it out so its not actually trapped between the rotor and the pad, and that itself helps the pad to stay alive a bit longer...

You'll still have benefits with cross drilled however many cross drilled rotors are prone to stress fractures due to the fact that they are drilled after the rotor is forged, whereas the slots are actually shaped within the forging/casting process. You'll notice RDA also have the gold passivated rotors with slots and 'dimples'. The dimples are done during casting and dont go the entire way thru the disc, so theyre much hardier. cross drilling isnt so useful for street work (lets face it, its there for cooling so its mainly for racers)... slotted is more than enough for any street car.. if your slotted rotors aren't doing the job on the street, then thats the time you consider caliper and disc diameter upgrades... or switch to a prius

I've already added a cusco brake cylinder brace and braided brake lines and those two improve the feeling/response of the brakes quite a bit. The new rotors should really seal the deal, I can't see myself needing bigger calipers or disc diameter...

-D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...