Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So in otherwords im pretty much farked and its gunna cost me a shitload. So no matter what im gunna have to get it cut out welded in new then complied then checked thru regency because what 10mm of metal was cut out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah all lights were working but not having driven the car let alone at night for 2 months as its been defect genarally makes it a little hard to tell, since its illegal to drive the car on the road day or nite.

Im sorry but 10mm is bulls##t. To defect on that which is gunna cost some1 whos not hooning around breaking the law, asalting ppl just enjoying motor vehicles is crap

did they go right for them? its stupid you can drill a hole for FMIC pipe but not 6x9? the fmic hole would affect the crumple zone more then 6x9.

i was within a day of cutting my rear deck to port the sub thru, damn it!!!! do i rethink the port or hide it really well under carpet on deck and block access from the boot to speaker deck ? REGENCY SUX end of rant.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...