Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

damo ive decided to go with the N1 ISC's it was a toss up between them and the TEIN Super Streets which i can get for $1900 delivered, and the ISC's are $1500

I reackon 8kg/6kg would be the go for Adelaide raods

anything above that would be too harsh a ride

just get aftermarket sway bars if wanting to improve handling a bit more

don't go too stiff Cara

hey stiff is good,, for some things.lol

but mine is too stiff, shocks you perves..lol, going to raise it up some and loose the ride up, its like driving on the stops,,, hard , cant get traction on rough adelaide roads at all. annoying to drive on south road bumps near me. Newish Bilstiens on mine

hahaha i have 12kg front and 10kg rear my car is so stiff two jacks of a jack and it starts moving off the ground ask Pete not cool great for a race track which is as smooth as a babies bottom but not adelaide roads

hahaha i have 12kg front and 10kg rear my car is so stiff two jacks of a jack and it starts moving off the ground ask Pete not cool great for a race track which is as smooth as a babies bottom but not adelaide roads

mine is like that too, so stiff the car can be rocked on driveways,picks up the rear tire and opposite front one..looks funny as hell, R34 is a stiff chassis to start with. then the nismo LSD locks up in flight.. light throttle or it gets interesting to say the least

jack it up on one corner the whole car lifts up.. not sure the spring weights but its insane stiff,, feels like a go cart, fun on smooth roads , lame on SA roads

I reackon 8kg/6kg would be the go for Adelaide raods

anything above that would be too harsh a ride

just get aftermarket sway bars if wanting to improve handling a bit more

ill getting sway bars too that is on my list :thumbsup:

mine is like that too, so stiff the car can be rocked on driveways,picks up the rear tire and opposite front one..looks funny as hell, R34 is a stiff chassis to start with. then the nismo LSD locks up in flight.. light throttle or it gets interesting to say the least

jack it up on one corner the whole car lifts up.. not sure the spring weights but its insane stiff,, feels like a go cart, fun on smooth roads , lame on SA roads

she wont be a daily once the blower is on, but ill prob end up putting the coilovers in once i get them anyway.

ill getting sway bars too that is on my list :thumbsup:

she wont be a daily once the blower is on, but ill prob end up putting the coilovers in once i get them anyway.

if you more more traction for the straight it's better to go softer settings!

and personally i don't like heavy duty sway bars at the front because it made my car understeer!

Edited by nos man

cara, if youre spending this huge amount of money on power, dont cheap out on suspension.

bilstein PSS9 coilovers, whiteline blade adjustable swaybars, adjustable camber, castor, toe, and traction arms, etc etc.

you want 800hp, but wanna put down through cheap suspensions... why?

cara, if youre spending this huge amount of money on power, dont cheap out on suspension.

bilstein PSS9 coilovers, whiteline blade adjustable swaybars, adjustable camber, castor, toe, and traction arms, etc etc.

you want 800hp, but wanna put down through cheap suspensions... why?

depend on the application i reckon! if it's more of a dyno/straight line queen then there's no problems really! but trying to handle that much power around corners and stuff, i would be investing alot of money into suspension and brakes!

cara, if youre spending this huge amount of money on power, dont cheap out on suspension.

bilstein PSS9 coilovers, whiteline blade adjustable swaybars, adjustable camber, castor, toe, and traction arms, etc etc.

you want 800hp, but wanna put down through cheap suspensions... why?

I think 800hp is what the blower is rated at

600hp would be a more realistic ballpark figure I'd imagine - John Keen would know his stuff however Im guessing that big figures will wear the engine out in no time

Stlll, I've never seen an RB supercharged and I think this is gonna be a really interesting project to watch

-D

depend on the application i reckon! if it's more of a dyno/straight line queen then there's no problems really! but trying to handle that much power around corners and stuff, i would be investing alot of money into suspension and brakes!

yeah pretty much what you have said is correct, i prob wont even bother taking the 34 out on the track (only drag strip)

I think 800hp is what the blower is rated at

600hp would be a more realistic ballpark figure I'd imagine - John Keen would know his stuff however Im guessing that big figures will wear the engine out in no time

Stlll, I've never seen an RB supercharged and I think this is gonna be a really interesting project to watch

-D

thats correct ben. the supercharger is rated at 800 hp with a maximum airflow of 1200 CFM. however the 800hp is based on a engine that is running at 100% efficiency, so realistically, its gonna be around 700-750hp which is still alot of power, 750hp= 559 kW..........

my engine is being built by Chris Miltion Engineeting Developments and they have all the information on the blower itself and they are building my engine for the blower.... so the engine will be very strong and able to handl the power no matter what i throw at it.

that is so f**ked

so a minister pretty much gets away with doing what anyone else won't

yeah his credibility is out the window now Krishy so no matter what his future in Parliament entails, he'll never ever be taken seriously again........he'll soon be out altogether me thinks.

damo ive decided to go with the N1 ISC's it was a toss up between them and the TEIN Super Streets which i can get for $1900 delivered, and the ISC's are $1500

don't do it!

At the end of the day, no one can give you any advice Cara until we know what you are gonna do with the car.

Street Only = 4 or 5 kg Front and approx 6 kg Rear with decent sway bars.

Drag Racing = Stock standard suspension for weight transfer

Regular track work = as per what Krishy said above with decent sway bars

Bilstein PSS9......you could do alot worse :wacko:

yeah his credibility is out the window now Krishy so no matter what his future in Parliament entails, he'll never ever be taken seriously again........he'll soon be out altogether me thinks.

don't do it!

At the end of the day, no one can give you any advice Cara until we know what you are gonna do with the car.

Street Only = 4 or 5 kg Front and approx 6 kg Rear with decent sway bars.

Drag Racing = Stock standard suspension for weight transfer

Regular track work = as per what Krishy said above with decent sway bars

Bilstein PSS9......you could do alot worse :wacko:

the car will be show/dyno queen and every now and then drag strip warrior lol

yeah pretty much what you have said is correct, i prob wont even bother taking the 34 out on the track (only drag strip)

well if that's the case, go as soft as possible and get rid of your 18" rims.......15" or 16" is what you need on the rear

well if that's the case, go as soft as possible and get rid of your 18" rims.......15" or 16" is what you need on the rear

i got 19's pete lol :wacko:

if i was to go on the drag strip id be putting stockies on anyway

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...