Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wouldnt of thought NA RB would have enough power to utilise the RON

i didnt wanna say it.

LOL that's what i would have thought?

What static compression do they run?

9:1 afaik.

just for comparison, my old toyota ran a cr of 10.5:1 and didnt have any problems on any premium fuel. cant see how the lower compression nissan engine would suffer problems.

my car lost power with the v-power fuel, she hated it ran like crap and detonated off her nut :laugh:

I'd be taking her to the mechanic in that case, could be many other things like spark, coil packs, afm ect ect....

Mine runs just fine on V Power, I wouldn't say it runs better (than Ultimate 98) but I definitely get better fuel consumption on V Power. But I'll use either, depends where and when I fill up... :nyaanyaa:

Well the issue is resolved. Found some octane booster in my shed, put it in this morning and she runs fine now. f**king shit fuel. :nyaanyaa:

Edit: I should add, it doesn't matter if the engine is forced or na, shit fuel is still shit fuel. Don't you think NA cars suffer detonation too?

I've got a new name for V Power: Vagina Power = its a c*nt of a fuel :laugh:

Edited by RubyRS4

almost there. intakes been hooked up, disconnected the cas and cranked it a few times, cant see any leaks, but ill have to wait til i actually start it to know for sure.

just waiting on a couple shorter exhaust studs, and then its start time. getting anxious now. lol.

What servo did you get the V-Power from Ruby? Was it a servo that is very busy? 98 ron fuel (no matter who makes it) will lose octane as it sits. So if it had sat in their tanks for 3-4 weeks because no one had bought it, then it would probably have been down around 95 RON.

The trick is ALWAYS buy your fuel (BP, Shell, Mobil) from a very busy servo. Tanks get drained quick, which always means nice fresh 98 ron fuel.

The same applies if you put you dont drive your car for a while. If it sits for a month or two, ALWAYS add fresh fuel, or at least octane booster before heading off again :nyaanyaa:

Supporting the above, I've use both V-Power and BP Ultimate in all my cars, and each fuel is the same as each other - never a bad batch because I always visit busy servo's on main roads :laugh:

I think I just encountered a bad batch. Still wasn't happy about it.

I always (99.9%) buy my fuel from BP near Greyhounds and BP West Tce, or Shell West Tce

Not sure if I should name the servo ... but its located near the brewery :nyaanyaa:

Edited by RubyRS4

See now that is a pretty shitty small servo - it wouldn't surprise me if the don't sell much 98 there at all and you got some old horrible fuel.

(probably sell plenty of 91 with the 4c dockets for all the dero's heading home to the western suburbs :nyaanyaa:)

Just a quick question...how do i get the static compression ratio of my car???? std rb30 but with a set of hypatec dished pistons??

a compression tester ? if its a built engine, or you can calculate compression based upon measurements,bore,cc of cyl head etc if the motor isnt built yet

how awesome is having 3,333 posts?

not because im a post whore and wanna brag about my fairly large e-penis, i just like having numbers line up.

that and a dollar coin will get you a few min at the car wash to wash your penis dave...the one that counts is the "666" post :nyaanyaa: ...lol

See now that is a pretty shitty small servo - it wouldn't surprise me if the don't sell much 98 there at all and you got some old horrible fuel.

(probably sell plenty of 91 with the 4c dockets for all the dero's heading home to the western suburbs :P )

Aww c'mon ... its right next door to the fully hectik Super Cheap yo! Thats gotta be worth a few extra kw. :nyaanyaa:

Had no choice, right near empty and I failed to stop at BP West Tce. :laugh:

that and a dollar coin will get you a few min at the car wash to wash your penis dave...the one that counts is the "666" post :nyaanyaa: ...lol

the devil is my bitch.

srsly.

ive got a photo around here somewhere...

... anyways, got a price on those work meshies i posted some pages back. bout 1400 beans. be able to sell my enkeis to make up at least half that i reckon.

:EDIT:

for anyone that cares, these are the wheels in question;

4902P5120746.jpg

went out side with a couple rulers, fronts will sit pretty flush with the camber im running at the moment, rears will sit *just* proud with a 5mm slip on, will require some rolling though, and a bit of a lip when i get the camber sorted. jawesome.

Edited by scandyflick
meshies look awesome, def one of my favourite style of rim to suit a skyline or a 2hunj

love VS-XX work or the Weds Kranze mesh - or BBS if youve got the extra coin you dont mind parting with your left testicle, first born son, and soul.

Edited by scandyflick

Ebay find:

A bit too "out there" for my liking. It'd be a cop magnet in Adelaide

http://www.cgi.ebay.com.au/R33-Nissan-Skyline

and here's a fail:

http://www.cgi.ebay.com.au/1999-Nissan-Sky...R34-GT-R-Purple

:dry:

Edited by RubyRS4
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
    • I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.      
    • Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!
×
×
  • Create New...