Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mainframe computer in head office will only let us see a few different things...i can go on carpoint.com.au ...but not carsales.com.au...

http://www.bypassthat.com/ :banana:

HAPPY BIRTHDAY DOHMAR

sex: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...an-t270578.html

my missus wants to give beyonce a good going over

im not sure whether to be happy for you or worried.

ok so Nat Bass isn't the best out there, but would you kick this out of bed:

RalphMagazine001.jpg

i wouldnt :banana:

Yep, what Vu said.

Note that bigger injectors and cams will not help the stock turbo necessarily make more power, as at over 200rwkw it is well out of its efficiency range. Also note that unless you are lucky, a stock turbo will not last massively long at 12psi. If I were were you I would skip the stocker, as a HKS 25/30 like mine can be had for around $1,500, and the Garrett version even cheaper (makes slightly less power though).

Also, yes you would need bigger cams and injectors (my injectors run at up to 96% making 230rwkw) to make 300rwkw unless you went for a stupidly big (read = laggy and unstreetable) turbo. Not sure how long your top end would last with 300rwkw, but seems to be a fair few people doing it around Aus.

i got 186kw when willal got there mainline dyno and i had 3" turbo back exhaust, fmic, power fc, fuel pump and boost was 13.8 psi so go figure! same as my mechanics r34 gtt he got 191kw!

with a few mods i am making 211rwkw on 12psi but ur right Son as my stock turbo is running out off puff towards the redline......but really happy down low which is very good streetable power.....but just dont know how long that the stock turbo will last....it has been running 12 psi for about 1 year now and still going strong so looking ok atm.....and my dyno figures are from Graham West Dyno's

ok so Nat Bass isn't the best out there, but would you kick this out of bed:

i wouldnt :banana:

I would. I hate it when people have a wonky eye, esp on chicks. Makes me wanna slap em and say "WTF are u looking at?"

Oh and I think shes got less talent than a 3 kilogram bag of horse shit. At least the horse shit can fertilize the garden, all she does is rip of lyrics from other musicians and spends half of her songs talking because she can't sing for shit....

Yeah I'm mean, so what...

-D

How much power are you looking for Cara? 300?

just wanting to know what the max would be for stock engine before i would have to do internals, the 500rwkw will be a while before that happens, and cause my car isnt a daily anymore, i guess 250-300 would be a nice "starting point" even tho i would start off stock and go from there....i know it prob sounds weird but i would rather learn from having a stock engine and going from there really.

i mean is it worth getting this ebc thing? and what the hell is a bleed valve lol

just wanting to know what the max would be for stock engine before i would have to do internals, the 500rwkw will be a while before that happens, and cause my car isnt a daily anymore, i guess 250-300 would be a nice "starting point" even tho i would start off stock and go from there....i know it prob sounds weird but i would rather learn from having a stock engine and going from there really.

i mean is it worth getting this ebc thing? and what the hell is a bleed valve lol

lol Cara. EBC = Electronic Boost Controller, recommended for the power your aiming at making, forget a bleed valve for your goals. Greddy Profec B Spec II is popular and not that expensive.

If you plan to go big, do it in one go, dont buy and test turbo's etc, will be too costly. Research examples of det Neo's makign the sort of power your looking at. Why not buy a RB25/30 from R.I.P.S?

Taken from http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html:

"RB30 Stock internal long engines start at NZD$5250 with RB25 head. (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm)"

beyonce0309.jpg

Happy B'day Dohmar :banana:

i find her voice extremely annoying at the moment,.

and yes happy birthday ben!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :laugh::laugh:

lol Cara. EBC = Electronic Boost Controller, recommended for the power your aiming at making, forget a bleed valve for your goals. Greddy Profec B Spec II is popular and not that expensive.

If you plan to go big, do it in one go, dont buy and test turbo's etc, will be too costly. Research examples of det Neo's makign the sort of power your looking at. Why not buy a RB25/30 from R.I.P.S?

Taken from http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html:

"RB30 Stock internal long engines start at NZD$5250 with RB25 head. (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm)"

i wish i could damo, but the engine alone is gonna cost nearly $13,000 to do.............and im a long way off from getting that sort of money atm.

the thing is, i could get to 300rwkw and be happy with that. its hard to say until im there. just one of those things really i wont know until im there, dont get me wrong, id still love to get to 500rwkw, but at the moment its gonna be a while before that happens :D

Edited by MissR34
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...