Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So yeah, my brakes are shite. and with the RDA slotted rotors im getting, what is the general opinion on EBC "Yellowstuff" pads? Mainly for daily use and driving through the hills, but i want some decent pads to compliment the rotors, any help would be great.

So yeah, my brakes are shite. and with the RDA slotted rotors im getting, what is the general opinion on EBC "Yellowstuff" pads? Mainly for daily use and driving through the hills, but i want some decent pads to compliment the rotors, any help would be great.

not for daily use bud..........maybe redstuff is as far as you'd want to go

get some QFM HPXs or A1RMs .... awesome stopping power, little brake dust and little rotor wear .... the different coloured 'stuff' pads eat rotors for breakfast and have too much dust IMHO.

So yeah, my brakes are shite. and with the RDA slotted rotors im getting, what is the general opinion on EBC "Yellowstuff" pads? Mainly for daily use and driving through the hills, but i want some decent pads to compliment the rotors, any help would be great.

As Andrew has said you can't go past that QFM pads, I'm using the A1RM pads, they have unbelievable cold bite (I seriously couldn't believe it), and i have used them at Mallala and pulling low 1:20's and for 15 minutes and never had any fade. Also done 2 modern Reg' events and i still have another 2 days left in the pads, that's with a few hills runs as well.

They have a 1/2 price rears deal (through GSR RallySport, who's a trader on here) as well and i got free postage as well so that's front and rear 780 degree pads for $190 posted.

Edited by D_Stirls
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
    • I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to.
×
×
  • Create New...