Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tint a car do Midnight Express, which apparently is the darkest legal tinting option! Heard good things about it.

Before Steve gets in, i think Ric from Auto Perfection does it too :D

no its not on the 2 front windows - i found out the hard way can be 35% all round but the front windows - no more than 70%

Cara is right i have the widow tinting brochure that i got when my car was being inspected.

Taken from the brochure:

The driver and passenger windows must have a luminous transmittance of at least 70%

The windows behind the driver must have a luminous transmittance of at least 35% unless they are interior windows

The inspector had a good look at the windows in the stag when i was there on Wednesday.

Edited by DSTROY

Umm all these damm rules. :D why can't things be simple.

Thank you for the suggestions. All windows bar the front two are done, the rears do look fairly dark though.

So possibly 70% fronts??

As Andrew has said you can't go past that QFM pads, I'm using the A1RM pads, they have unbelievable cold bite (I seriously couldn't believe it), and i have used them at Mallala and pulling low 1:20's and for 15 minutes and never had any fade. Also done 2 modern Reg' events and i still have another 2 days left in the pads, that's with a few hills runs as well.

They have a 1/2 price rears deal (through GSR RallySport, who's a trader on here) as well and i got free postage as well so that's front and rear 780 degree pads for $190 posted.

Im pretty sure the QFM's are not available for skylines atm. They wont have any for about 3-4 weeks :D

Umm all these damm rules. :D why can't things be simple.

Thank you for the suggestions. All windows bar the front two are done, the rears do look fairly dark though.

So possibly 70% fronts??

My fronts where nearly as dark as the back window on the Stag but i had to rip it cos i got defected, but i'll get them done to match the rears again cos legal tint will look to see though compared to the privacy glass.

70% to be legal, darker if you want to risk being defected.

so, had a bit of trouble moving my seat rail back and forward.

solution, absolutely packed it full of some random loctite grease. (i lol'd at loctite making a product designed to stop shit sticking)

still a bit firm, but whatever, probably just the rails expanded a little when they were being welded and bound up a tiny bit. no biggie, much easier to move than it was.

lol at passed out little guy

off to melbourne tomorrow morning to buy a yellow 02 ford escape for $5999

paid $500 and $90 for air flight. got unrego vehicle permit to drive it back

need to grab 2 tyres in melbourne, fill her up, then drive back.

long day tomorrow me thinks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...