Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its insane the bench mark these days :(

Tell me about it, I remember when/if you had 300 you were a gods greatest gift.

win. lookin forward to seeing that thing bust some fat skids.

shame the potato potato conversion in s chassis cars hasnt really caught on over here...

It's not really all that hard though, that's what I don't understand is why it hasn't.

I don't care about what people say these days, when it's done A.I.R ( Anzac International Raceway ) Will be opened back up. :laugh::P

At the moment a fresh CA because I was going to go over the pits but now I'm thinking it's not worth it as I will get done straight away with the new set up.

Oh they were the best. I remember the 1st time in A l e x ' s car up on the stall at the lights then just skating across all 3 lanes.

It's not really all that hard though, that's what I don't understand is why it hasn't.

yeah, ive looked at a bunch of conversions that have been done state side and talked to a bunch of people that have done it, and it seems like one of the simplest conversions ever. and for a steady and reliable 250+ rwkw with a f**ktonne of torque for a reasonably small outlay, i really dont see why more people havent done it. if i could do that and keep the s14 street legal i would, shit, selling my sr and all the junk attached to it would pay for a pretty fair portion of the conversion.

100 ron you mean?

In addition to United Petroleum introducing BOOST 98 and PLUS ULP at its retail sites. United has also introduced, PREMIUM 100 and PREMIUM 98. United's customers are able to choose from regular unleaded petrol and ethanol enhanced fuels.

http://www.unitedpetroleum.com.au/index.asp?pgID=65

"Premium100 is a high performance petrol with an octane of 100, which is the highest rating available in the Australian market. Ethanol is a natural octane enhancer - adding 10% ethanol to petrol boosts its octane number and its performance. Ethanol helps the other components in petrol burn more completely. It also has a cleaning effect on the cars fuel system. Premium100 will give your car more zip! "

reading from that it should b better then BP ultimate. i might have to give it a try... i fill up tuesdays so might use it 2moro. any1 tried it?

hey just thought id share, been playing need4 speed just unlocked level 2 headlights. HECTIC PROJECTIC hey they worth atleast 10hp. lv4 score multiplyer just need a roof scoop now and it will be really cool

post-31501-1251718282_thumb.jpg

unfortunately I got stopped by the cops 3 times so they confiscated the car n game over, u know how it go's

Edited by Inline 6
hey just thought id share, been playing need4 speed just unlocked level 2 headlights. HECTIC PROJECTIC hey they worth atleast 10hp. lv4 score multiplyer just need a roof scoop now and it will be really cool

post-31501-1251718282_thumb.jpg

unfortunately I got stopped by the cops 3 times so they confiscated the car n game over, u know how it go's

Wow! all that car needs is some graphics and it would be full of win :laugh:

Edited by DSTROY
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...