Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What thermos are you putting in Adrian? I bought a thumping 12" thermo off Ebay to put in my 34 and took the clutch fan out. Biggest mistake ever - cooling is much less effective than the stock clutch fan and shroud. I think it may be cos I didn't put a shroud in with the thermo - not sure. People/machanics have since pointed out to me that Nissan CHOSE to put in the clutch fan setup to suit the car - so it is best not to mess with it. If they though thermos would do a better job, then they would have used thermos when they built the cars.

I am looking for an R34 clutch fan to put back in my car and piss the thermo fan off. It is not performing, and it is so damn noisy compared with the clutch fan.

anyone know if is to take my clutch fan out and remove the pulley for it.. will that be ok?

as im gonna put thermos on!

Mate it doesn't matter how good your thermos are if you remove that pulley as the temp are guaranteed to sky rocket......

It's the water pump pulley. :P

I have just written a response to a similar question on NS... here it is. Oh and someone did a back to back test by removing the clutch fan and it netted 6 rwkw.

People think they're freeing up power by installing thermos but what they don't realize is the extra power draw puts more load on the alternator and the alternator puts more resistance on the turning of the engine so the gains would be extremely minimal if at all. You'll notice the engine revs drop when a thermo fan comes on. This is why.

As Donny has said above this isn't really the point.

Your clutch fan draws power 100% of the time and the more you rev your car the more power they draw, when really you only need it to draw power when the coolant temp rises.

When you are driving why do you need a fan to draw air over the radiator when air is moving over it because the car is moving. I have a single 14" thermo setup on my car and it only ever comes on when sitting at the lights for more than 3 minutes or when moving slowly under high load (i.e. up a hill behind a slow car.......bloody Sunday drivers :) ). This means that these are the only time that the thermos are drawing power from the engine. Even when the car is getting a flogging the temp doesn't move from 87 degrees, the more I flog it the faster i'm moving and the more air flow the radiator is getting.

I also have the thermo set up on a switch in the cabin as well as the thermo switch (two signals to the same pin on the relay), this way when i'm idling the car down i can have the thermo on and drop the coolant temps (not that they'll move much because the thermostat is only starts opening at 82 degrees).

Edited by D_Stirls
thats awsome! im yet to own a car with air con :)

i'll let you fix mine up too :P

Whats wrong with the 32's climate control? ever done diagnostics on it? I can have a look if u like, i think u live relatively close too...

-D

I ran 2 x 12" turbo's they sucked to put it politely. Fine in cooler weather as soon as it 'slightly' warmed up temps began heading north.

Either adapt a set of EL thermo fans or don't bother at all.

Geez!! 2 x 12" turbos - the lag must have been shocking, but I bet they did suck!

:P

What thermos are you putting in Adrian? I bought a thumping 12" thermo off Ebay to put in my 34 and took the clutch fan out. Biggest mistake ever - cooling is much less effective than the stock clutch fan and shroud. I think it may be cos I didn't put a shroud in with the thermo - not sure. People/machanics have since pointed out to me that Nissan CHOSE to put in the clutch fan setup to suit the car - so it is best not to mess with it. If they though thermos would do a better job, then they would have used thermos when they built the cars.

I am looking for an R34 clutch fan to put back in my car and piss the thermo fan off. It is not performing, and it is so damn noisy compared with the clutch fan.

I had major problems with my clutch fan flexing and slicing my radiatior open so I got rid of it and did the adjustable thermo fan and its fantastic. Car doesnt get hot, isnt loud and works a treat... but mine wasnt from ebay and had a shroud etc.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...