Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was looking at 100mm cores...as i want to throw the twin set up and got a single set up, and how i was seeing this is at say the same boost level the big single is sure to be pushing more air than the twins. am i correct? so the larger core wont be too bad

ill tell ya now i bought a big fat 120mm cooler and it is the worst thing i ever done as it was nasty very nasty 2 fit,front reo had major surgery...if i was smarter i would have done what you did and asked people...

how does a 100-105mm core fit on the r32 GTR front like? is there much modifying the front bar and reo...not concerned about the reo bar as it needs either to be replaced or to have a bit of time spent on it. thats story for another time...just a stupid mistake someone made that had the car b4 me

i have a 90mm ARE custom job, and the reo and part of the front bar was cut. spoke to ARE and they recommended this tube and fin, will happily keep temps down at track to around 450rwkw. it's a bit overkill but if the motor pops and I build an engine, I won't have to upgrade the cooler again.

gallery_1486_103_34271.jpg

gallery_1486_103_108352.jpg

mmm...so was there much cut off the front bar for the 90mm core to fit?

what power levels would a 70mm ARC cooler handel?

im not to concerned about cutting up the reo bar. as that has already been done to fit the N1 vents. but would live to avoid cutting too much off the front bar if possible but will if need be

the ARE guys will make you a custom sized core, thats whats really good about them. (www.are.com.au)

yep - they don't make a 90mm tube/fin as standard fitment.

just give them a buzz and have a chat!

on This Page they have a Type E28 610x300x73 core that will do 400kw conservatively...

Ive got a HKS 100mm one on mine and it fits in behind the reo...i thinks its a matter of how well you can manouvre your piping and cooler to get it sitting in the right spot mostly. Even if you had to make some custom brackets like myself...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...