Jump to content
SAU Community

Hiclone - ? - Another Myth To Grab Average Car People? Snake Oil?


Recommended Posts

I'm assuming this is just like all the other 'Gain power now, save fuel..'

http://www.fuelsaver.com.au/hiclone.php

Thoughts?

After looking through the web site, it all feels like rubbish, but......

From web site....

Turbo Engines

For Turbo vehicles we suggest installing Hiclones in two locations.

The first Hiclone is installed near the intake manifold; after the Turbo or intercooler; to improve combustion and economy.

The second part is installed near the air filter, before the Turbo. This part helps the Turbo Impellor to spin, reducing Turbo lag, bringing the boost in around 400-500rpm earlier.

It is also possible to install extra Hiclones in power or economy positions to further improve the vehicle. We have a lot of customers with up to 6 Hiclones installed on one vehicle.

Please note the line - AFTER THE Turbo ??!!!

Edited by Zebbie

I read an article a little while ago where they tested a bunch of these power enhancing/fuel saving type devices in a stock car on a dyno, and the best you could hope is that they did nothing, most of them restricted some power and one even set the test car on fire :)

surely you jest?!?! I mean look at the fking thing. and the diagrams... ooooh swirling air.... just get out a $100 note and set it on fire. you will get all of the benefits of a hi-con with the potential for engine damage.

i've bought a new RB20E long and i'm building it up to run quad hiclones... should run 9's all day

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

This is my favourite quote from their website:

The ECU will need time to re-learn (about a week) this is why dyno shops who test products by doing one run without, and one run with any product don't know how to use a dyno on an EFI car.

So basically they are saying everytime you do back to back dyno tests you are wrong, and thats why no one has proof their product actually works.

Utter BS

This is my favourite quote from their website:

The ECU will need time to re-learn (about a week) this is why dyno shops who test products by doing one run without, and one run with any product don't know how to use a dyno on an EFI car.

So basically they are saying everytime you do back to back dyno tests you are wrong, and thats why no one has proof their product actually works.

Utter BS

anything to make a dollah!

I read an article a little while ago where they tested a bunch of these power enhancing/fuel saving type devices in a stock car on a dyno, and the best you could hope is that they did nothing, most of them restricted some power and one even set the test car on fire :D

:w00t:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...