Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ahh, just found out a mate from school is going to do it.

Just gotta pay sum1 to do the wiring.

Anyone with much info on it?

Is it

Straight swap? mounts line up? gearbox line up?

Were can i source a cheap halfcut?.

I Dont need Ecu as i have a 33 microtech.

Whats needed to be done for a mod plate?...

Thanks.

man do it yourself, i am.

doesnt look to hard i will find out as i go.

i will gettin help from the lovely people from SAU if i need it though.

prob be able to get a from cut of a r33 for like 3500 if that, that gives you everything you need.

mechanics if you make it easy for you will prob do it for 2-3 K drive in drive out. with no other modifications.

Ahh, just found out a mate from school is going to do it.

Just gotta pay sum1 to do the wiring.

Anyone with much info on it?

Is it

Straight swap? mounts line up? gearbox line up?

Were can i source a cheap halfcut?.

I Dont need Ecu as i have a 33 microtech.

Whats needed to be done for a mod plate?...

Thanks.

yes and no...it is a straight swap but it isnt....

you need to change the gearbox mount and the tail shaft..

use whatever computer you want, just tune it.

dont mod plate it....:O you shouldnt need to.

the r32 came out with a 2.5 ltr....or just dont advertise it as a 2.5 ltr you should be fine....

but i would mod plate it cause it is illegal not to....savvy

gearbox mount needs to be modified...weld abit of angle along the back of it to pick up the last two bolt holes.

do it yourself and you might learn something about your car.

Edited by r33_racer

You can keep the Rb20 box (i have) but may not last you long... if you are going to use the rb25 box you will need to get a shortened tailshaft made up for around $700.. and you can use the existing rb20 harness if you make a few minor changes... it's all easy if you have a soldering iron hehehe

do it yourself ..... i have been quoted over $6000 for a conversion i did under $2000 :thumbsup:

yes and no...it is a straight swap but it isnt....

you need to change the gearbox mount and the tail shaft..

use whatever computer you want, just tune it.

dont mod plate it....:) you shouldnt need to.

the r32 came out with a 2.5 ltr....or just dont advertise it as a 2.5 ltr you should be fine....

but i would mod plate it cause it is illegal not to....savvy

it easy as to get it mod plated cause like you say the 25de is an option in r32s I think it cost me $160 to get mine plated

people could save them selves the trouble and but mine???!

man do it yourself, i am.

doesnt look to hard i will find out as i go.

i will gettin help from the lovely people from SAU if i need it though.

prob be able to get a from cut of a r33 for like 3500 if that, that gives you everything you need.

mechanics if you make it easy for you will prob do it for 2-3 K drive in drive out. with no other modifications.

3500 for a R33 GTST cut.. damn they have dropped...

Do TTR still do them? lol from memory the were around 5k

no offence but i knw of alot of ex employees from TTR.. and i knw of alot of stories.. as in moding the CA loom to fit RB20s. pm me if u want details.. i jsut dont like the company

You can keep the Rb20 box (i have) but may not last you long... if you are going to use the rb25 box you will need to get a shortened tailshaft made up for around $700.. and you can use the existing rb20 harness if you make a few minor changes... it's all easy if you have a soldering iron hehehe

do it yourself ..... i have been quoted over $6000 for a conversion i did under $2000 :)

yeh well help ya. throw up a BBQ and ill poke at ur engine.. but u make me work too much ill expect moolah haha

You can keep the Rb20 box (i have) but may not last you long... if you are going to use the rb25 box you will need to get a shortened tailshaft made up for around $700.. and you can use the existing rb20 harness if you make a few minor changes... it's all easy if you have a soldering iron hehehe

do it yourself ..... i have been quoted over $6000 for a conversion i did under $2000 :)

yeah you can keep the box, i was gonna but then i thought...when it breaks....so i got a 25 one.

i heard that you can just change the yoke on the end???!?!?! or use a r33 front tailshaft piece. i could be wrong...i will crosse that hurdle when i get to it.

i didnt know you could use the 20 harness...thats cool as.

3500 for a R33 GTST cut.. damn they have dropped...

no offence but i knw of alot of ex employees from TTR.. and i knw of alot of stories.. as in moding the CA loom to fit RB20s. pm me if u want details.. i jsut dont like the company

yeh well help ya. throw up a BBQ and ill poke at ur engine.. but u make me work too much ill expect moolah haha

sif man pay you, we'll whip you till your finished the conversion.

Can help with the wiring. I have done a few now. Excellent conversion, I even did one for my fathers R32 at the start of this year. He loves it!

I have personally done 2 now and have done them over a weekend with a hand from my bro-in-laws.

Cheers

Ahh, just found out a mate from school is going to do it.

Just gotta pay sum1 to do the wiring.

Anyone with much info on it?

Is it

Straight swap? mounts line up? gearbox line up?

Were can i source a cheap halfcut?.

I Dont need Ecu as i have a 33 microtech.

Whats needed to be done for a mod plate?...

Thanks.

It's easy if you have the tools and know what you are doing, it takes more than anyone is going to tell you here on the forum but is not that hard, start using the r32 complete wiring harness only changing the 4th and 6th injectors pins

(rb25 igniton is different.), use r32 ecu, you need to use the r33 yoke (it is the begining of the driveshaft that connects into the tranny), the transmission mounts must to be changed (the r33 tranny seats a little farther than the r32, you'll need to custom your cluster if you are going to use the r33 tranny (r33 reads the speed digitally and r32 use a cable from tranny to the back of your cluster.).

If you don't mind for timing and you want the r33 front end too it's going to take really a lot of work!(I'm doing right now this conversion, r32 with r33 front end and complete front end wiring harness with the rb25 motor....lol it is really been a lot of things to do.)

gl with your swap.

Edited by dk_fabiosantos
You can keep the Rb20 box (i have) but may not last you long... if you are going to use the rb25 box you will need to get a shortened tailshaft made up for around $700.. and you can use the existing rb20 harness if you make a few minor changes... it's all easy if you have a soldering iron hehehe

do it yourself ..... i have been quoted over $6000 for a conversion i did under $2000 :)

if anyone needs a tailshaft made give brendon at petron automotive a call (its on tradelink rd in browns plains) Tell him matt with the rb26 s14 sent you, he will lookafter you.

if your paying $700 for a tailshaft im pretty sure you would be getting ripped off. but it depends what you are after i spose

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...