Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

For sale is my 1995 R33 GTS-T, with loads of extras.

On the clock at the moment is approx 140,000 km's

Rego until October 09

Mods List:

Series 2 engine (km's unknown) with:

- Front Mount Intercooler kit,

- Splitfire Coil Packs,

- Boost controller,

- Blitz blowoff valve,

- Custom Dump pipe,

- Super High-Flow Cat,

- 3" Inch exhaust,

- HKS fcon computer,

- High Flow Turbo

- runs 9psi

- Cushioned Button Clutch

Suspension/Handling/Brakes:

- Tanabe 'circuit' coilovers,

- caster rods,

- HICAS lock bar,

- Tein tie rods,

- tie rod spacers (extra steering lock)

- Front strut brace with master cylinder stopper,

- DS2500 race pads, air ducting and race fluid.

- Custom made braided brake lines by UAS.

Body:

- 400R front bar in primer

- 400R side skirts,

- Explosive rear bar,

- GTR rear wing,

- Dark window tints,

- 4 x 17" Work Equip superlight rims, (one is cracked and needs repairing)

- 4 x 17" TE37s (fitted)

In Car:

- Moulded Gauge Holder above centre console

- housing Boost, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp,

- Kenwood head unit (CD / MP3 / Radio),

- Aftermarket Steering wheel

Car has run a 1:12.4 around Wakefield Park, making it among the fastest R33 GTS-Ts that I've seen or heard of around the track. Car has had extensive weight reduction done and is very fast, I still have most parts to be sold with the car. Extensive stock pile of spare parts to go with the car aswell, including some spare rear coilovers. Fog lights and roll cage will be removed prior to sale and are not included with the car. Sale is due to purchase of new car.

The car is located in Sydney.

598e0426lqhs7.jpg

dsc9584lqge5.jpg

dsc9605lqbz4.jpg

tdsboysnopff9.jpg

The car is very fast and very reliable, in the two years I've owned it mechanically it has only needed a new clutch and Splitfire coil packs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188876-r33-gts-t-series-15-10499/
Share on other sites

The car isn't engineered, but that's only because I haven't wanted to spend the money on it.

Yes this cage can be engineered easily, it doesn't interfere with anything.

  • 1 month later...

Wow!

Whoever bought this got a bargain!! A well set up car and has had proven results!

A great track car!

And I didnt even get a chance to get out there with it on the track :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...