Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The green one!

Nah... anything decent-brand with corrosion inhibitor. You probably don't need anything with antifreeze, which narrows it down a bit.

Castrol, Nulon etc... If you're doing a complete flush, you shouldn't need to worry about mixing different brands, and you can start with almost anything you like. (and you'll know what you can top it up with after that)

  • 2 weeks later...

i heard to only use genuine Nissan coolant also by mechanic. i never was told why the other brands like castrol etc are no good and If they would or wouldn't cause damage??? its interesting because iv always used non genuine coolants in all my other cars and hadn't had a problem.... are the skylines different or more sensitive?

www.gimmecarparts.com.au

Contact James. I got the upper and lower rad hoses for about $60

Nothing wrong with the Nulon green stuff. I get the concentrate 5L for about $35.

If you want to be anal you can get distilled water. I just use tap water and do roughly 40% coolant to 60% water.

Edited by benl1981
www.gimmecarparts.com.au

Contact James. I got the upper and lower rad hoses for about $60

Nothing wrong with the Nulon green stuff. I get the concentrate 5L for about $35.

If you want to be anal you can get distilled water. I just use tap water and do roughly 40% coolant to 60% water.

+ 1

I have used it in all of my cars to date, even my dedicated drift car which gets a thorough workout to say the least. Never had a drama. Not much less than the nissan coolant though, so i spose if your a bit anal about your car maybe its worth a shot

There's 15 is there?!! - Is that including power steer etc? I did all the coolant hoses on a rav4 recently. I think there was about 5 hoses all up.

Maybe some of the smaller hoses you can just use standard hose and cable tie it to rigid parts to give it the shape. I didn't think there were that many in the R33

I got all the rav4 hoses for about $70 or $80. Check

http://www.mackayrubber.com.au/all-catalogues.htm

Can order through the other link in my previous post.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Time will tell, they're doing all the admin stuff at the moment. I've submitted all the required details, photos, etc.   I was under the impression that DC coupling is the best approach, i.e.: Solar Array -> Battery Invertor -> Battery  Where as AC Coupling is simpler, however less efficient, i.e.: Solar Array -> Solar Invertor -> Battery Invertor -> Battery
    • The price is really great for that kind of capacity. I thought similar setups cost way more. How's your efficiency been with the DC-coupling? I've heard sometimes there can be a bit of a performance loss.
    • Long time no random post about shit. So I went down this deep deep rabbit hole of battery storage for the home, ended up locking in a 41.9kWh Fox ESS EQ4800 with 9 units stacked. Battery uses Lithium Iron Phosphate, similar to what you find in those deep cycle boat/caravan batteries. And yes, why did I go with a cheapie brand and not like Synergy? simply because I don't plan to stay at this house for more than another 3~5 years.  The entire install, DC coupling (removal of existing invertor, connecting the current 6.6kW array direct to the battery invertor), new 8kW invertor is $6K all up (after all the rebates etc.). Going with this lot: https://www.aussiesolarbatteries.com.au/ It did seem a bit too good to be true, however seems like the Whirlpool community has vetted it and when it comes to this kind of stuff, they seem to be all over it: https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9pxj8482?p=38   I've requested for the battery to be installed outside, next to my meter board and not inside - rather have it combust and ignite outside lol.    
    • In Vic it would be a defect regardless of whether or not you cut a hole in the sheetmetal for the return pipe. The rules in Vic are shitful, and are generally interpreted as you can "make 2 mods to the intake system". Putting an FFP and an FMI onto it will almost certainly be seen as some huge number of intake mods. You really need to speak to an engineer before doing this stuff in VIC.
    • planning a r34 rb25 de+t with some other work, rather just have it done in a shop due to space limitations any recommendations? I have most the parts already I seen online Moore Performance and DR Drift any advice appreciated thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...