Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt (having Problems)

GTmike34

By GTmike34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTmike34 Explorer

GTmike34

Posted
Posted

Hi again, Just fitted the Bee-r to my R34 GTT (as posted the other day) and all was running fine, infact it was running awsome , until it decided to die on me on the way home. I got it all set up and wired in properley and had the limit set to 7000rpm which is low to what i normally run at 8000rpm .On my drive home i never even hit the limiter and my car just died. I've removed the bee-r and it still wont start or run. I've done a few checks, spark plugs or o.k , compression test was fine , everything seems ok , but i now have no spark to the plugs. Also i can hear a buzzing noise coming from the idle control valve when i turn on the ignition , is this supposed to happen as i dont recall hearing it before. I've took the covers off my power FC and nothing is fried in the ecu either so just wondered if anyone has any ideas

many thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188968-r34-gtt-having-problems/
Share on other sites
silverr34gtt Enthusiast

silverr34gtt

Posted
Posted (edited)

8000 rmp?

does it even make power that high? Standard block and head? cams?

What turbo are you running and at what psi?

Cant the PFC increase the rev limit to 8000 without the bee-r?

Edited by silverr34gtt
GTmike34 Explorer

GTmike34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
8000 rmp?

does it even make power that high? Standard block and head? cams?

What turbo are you running and at what psi?

Cant the PFC increase the rev limit to 8000 without the bee-r?

ive posted some pics in the gallery section now.

Running a T70 at 22psi with external wastegate

Tomei pon cams

greddy inlet manifold

stainless topmount exhaust manifold

full 3 1/2 inch exhaust custom built straight through from turbo back with Nurspec backbox (no cat)

150 wizard of noz system with spray and purge

I did all the work/fabrication myself with just a bit of time and patience

Edited by GTmike34
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Will it even crank? Or is it, turn key, buzz noise? I'd recheck the fuses in the kick-panel, my old GT used to mysteriously blow one of the main fuses giving the exact same symptoms.

Sometimes the fuses blow so neatly you can't see the break.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...