Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is what I've done with my 33 so far, and it has made a huge difference:

Removed (starting from the back):

Boot Lining / Carpet / Plywood Spare Wheel cover etc

Jack

Rear Seat

Rear Seat belts

Rear Speakers

Rear Parcel Tray

Steel Backing Plate between the battery and rear seat

HICAS

Rear Wiper / Motor

Superlight Weight Wheels (17 Work Equip Tri Spokes)

Car Carpet (not noticeable if you leave floor mats in at the front)

Entire Air con system, including coil inside the dash, compressor, cast iron brackets. (Kept heater though)

90% front bar reo, fitted fibre glass front bumper

Front indicators (rewired parkers as indicators)

Air bag steering wheel

Plastic Linings Inside the guards

Bonnet Lining

Splash Guard

Next to do:

Replace factory front seats with something lighter and better holding

Fibre glass Bonnet and front guards

Thats pretty hardcore!..

I seen this car at the "showy maccas" in Thorgnleigh before heading out for a drive..

Its a good way to save 150kg

Saving weight is a much cheaper alturnative than modifying ALL aspects of your car

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i couldn't live without my creature comforts, and it's such a shame to ruin a nice example of a car (especially one like ignuz/nick's). if i were going to clap out a car it'd be un-registered and for track - i personally don't see a point in doing things by halves. sure it might be a bit of street cred, but that's about it.

to put it in perspective; i know the owner of a mega buck street registered R34 GTR here which is super quick up here in QLD, and i also know an owner of a close to stock unregistered r33 gtst which runs faster times. the gtst has a cage, side exhaust pipe and all the stuff taken out; and pretty much that's it.

personal opinions only, like Cris said it's a cheap and effective way to go fast.

dunno if removing the front reo is such a good idea, as its there to absorb hits so your chassis doesn't bare the brunt of a frontal. but other than that that list sounds awesome way of goin about it.

how far you wanna go really depends on how much of a daily drivable street car you wanna keep it. I've found factory GTR rims to be the best value for money, as they're about 6 or 7 kgs a corner and really cheap compared to wheels sold as lightweight rims.

Yes I realise this and can see the benefit of having a proper reo, but (as with mine) if you get a fibre glass front bar it doesn't fit over the standard reo, so a lot has to be hacked off.

I might put a stronger reo / front bar back on once I've put fibre glass guards and bonnet on, but at the moment it is reasonably balanced (could still benefit from being a bit lighter at the front).

Probably best you keep the backing plate between the boot and cabin. Battery acid does wonders to your body if you get acid on you. and it's also illegal to remove it. front and rear bumpers are best to replace with fibreglass ones and also boot lid, and bonnet and front guards.

You learn something new every day, I had no idea that backing plate was required by law. I've just got a piece of cloth over that and where the back seats are.

Thats pretty hardcore!..

I seen this car at the "showy maccas" in Thorgnleigh before heading out for a drive..

Its a good way to save 150kg

Saving weight is a much cheaper alturnative than modifying ALL aspects of your car

Yes and when combined with well rounded modification, (ie a little bit of everything) it becomes a very tough car.

All up my running weight probably wouldn't be too far off stock at the end of it, because for all the weight that is pulled out, more stuff goes in. eg, My front mount probably makes up for the weight of the standard reo, front bar and air con pieces in the engine bay. Then I have a roll cage in the car aswell, so this would probably account for a lot of the weight thats been taken out of the interior as well.

If your really keen you can take all the sound deadening out with dry ice as well, this has been on my to do list for awhile as well, I just haven't had a weekend yet that I can set aside to pretty much do that and nothing else.

If your really keen you can take all the sound deadening out with dry ice as well, this has been on my to do list for awhile as well, I just haven't had a weekend yet that I can set aside to pretty much do that and nothing else.

Hows it go down ol pac?

i couldn't live without my creature comforts, and it's such a shame to ruin a nice example of a car (especially one like ignuz/nick's). if i were going to clap out a car it'd be un-registered and for track - i personally don't see a point in doing things by halves. sure it might be a bit of street cred, but that's about it.

to put it in perspective; i know the owner of a mega buck street registered R34 GTR here which is super quick up here in QLD, and i also know an owner of a close to stock unregistered r33 gtst which runs faster times. the gtst has a cage, side exhaust pipe and all the stuff taken out; and pretty much that's it.

personal opinions only, like Cris said it's a cheap and effective way to go fast.

damn that bug thing on your signature!!! everyone at work was giving me weird looks for throwing paper at my monitor!!!

Want a light R33 eh ?

O/k start with a tube frame chassis, turn the all aluminium twin turbo V35 engine around and use a transaxle gearbox, so the engine is in the middle of the car.

Then build a fiberglass replica body skin over the whole lot so it still looks like an R33.

Want a light R33 eh ?

O/k start with a tube frame chassis, turn the all aluminium twin turbo V35 engine around and use a transaxle gearbox, so the engine is in the middle of the car.

Then build a fiberglass replica body skin over the whole lot so it still looks like an R33.

And blow 100K

Or spend 100K on modding the 33?..

hmmmm..

Its a neat idea though!.. Wouldnt mind seeing one of them! Nice drag car!

  • 4 weeks later...

I guess all I do at the moment is remove back seat, remove everything from boot.

my bucket seat is MUCH lighter than the standard drivers....thats about it.

For Bathurst 2 weeks time I'll be doing alot more however not going to the extreme Matt does!! :D

(carpet, mats etc)

Matt - forget old pac, come to Bathurst!! :ermm::D

I guess all I do at the moment is remove back seat, remove everything from boot.

my bucket seat is MUCH lighter than the standard drivers....thats about it.

For Bathurst 2 weeks time I'll be doing alot more however not going to the extreme Matt does!! :)

(carpet, mats etc)

Matt - forget old pac, come to Bathurst!! :) :)

Yeah I haven't been there for a fair while now!

I'm going to be down at Wakefield on the 1st which is the same weekend as Bathurst isn't it? If not, I would come.

Add to that list, as of Saturday I have new rims on the car, 17" TE37s with semis, which seem to be lighter again.

I think the heavy arse steel belted tyres I had on the back were slowing me down a fair bit (can't complain though - the tyres lasted over a year). Traction has gone to hell though, even with the semis there is no such thing as being able to launch it for gaps in traffic anymore, and it has made it more over steery, which isn't really a bad thing).

All in all I still find the car very drivable and surprisingly still quiet when I'm just cruising along, my only complaint from removing as much as I have is that it gets very hot inside the car.

Matt - yeah mate its same date, 1st & 2nd

Wouldnt mind catching up mate and checking out your car at some stage! Get some visual ideas on how much has been removed and give me some form of "direction"!

Cheers,

Chris!

  • 2 weeks later...

weight depends on the width of course.

yeah i would have loved some 32 gtr rims, the size means cheap semis too...

but i cant be arsed doing a hub conversion - and the price on these lmgt4s were too good to pass up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...