Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all,

i jus went on a run up dandy for the first time and all was fine the car felt real good apart from alot of popping due to the car running MEGA rich.

on the way home i decided to gun it, apparently my mates saw that i blew a flame but it wasnt like a normal orange flame. they described it as a blue flame that just stayed in the exhaust and after it happened apparenlty ash or some shit started flying out. my car never blows flames it just pops and black smoke comes out due to the richness. my cat is shot to shit and might as well be gutted so im wondering if when it dumped ash out if it was just a whole lot of carbon build up or maybe something more serious?

also when we stopped at maccas i realised my stock oil pressure gauge was reading really low and nearly resting on the bottom and when i reved it it would go up a smidgen but never to anything higher than 2. ive read on here that factory gauges are notorious for oil pressure so im just hoping to settle my nerves by seeking you guy's advice. the car feels fine and almost the same as b4 when the pressure was normal. now im just paranoid as a i dont want to throw one out of number 6..

oh btw, the car is an r32 gts t rb20det, with full exhaust, panel filter. and otherwise might as well be stock. however the rev limiter and speed limiter is no longer on because thats the way i got the car when it was imported..

Edited by lteh
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189435-a-blue-flame/
Share on other sites

Since you revved it when the car was stationary, there wasnt any load, so the oil pressure wouldn't have gone up much more than 2 anyway.

Have you looked at the oil pressure when the engine is under load, ie. accelerating?

My guess would be you blew some of the cat's internals out, especially since you said the car feels/ sounds fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189435-a-blue-flame/#findComment-3415590
Share on other sites

firstly.. i'd check for an aftermarket ECU in there, you never know - alot of people have imported what they thought were standard cars and got something completely different.

get the car tuned and you'll get rid of the richness problem which will stop it from igniting in your exhaust.

rb oil pressure gauges arent very accurate. get a mechanical gauge on there to check your oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189435-a-blue-flame/#findComment-3415657
Share on other sites

your exhaust sounds pretty hot to blow blue flames, just a guess your cat is completly gutted and its not lowering exhaust temps and cos its rich yeh it ignites cos its so hot, turbo exhaust gases get pretty darn hot, especially the down pipe

what pressure is it at man? i think mine used to sit under 40psi at idle and 40psi on hwy, depends on oil weight as well.

Edited by BANGN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189435-a-blue-flame/#findComment-3417347
Share on other sites

thanks for the responses everyone.

the car seems to be running pretty much back to normal now i think it was just a case of paranoia. im planning on getting a tune after a save up for my new turbo then i will get everything done.

the car didnt drop any oil and there are no leaks anywhere so i think it is just what femno said abotu the hotter oil.

thanks heaps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189435-a-blue-flame/#findComment-3417712
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...