Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Gizzmo Launch Interface (ign Cut), Gizzmo Shift Light, Adapter Loom - Plug Straight In! (all Rb's)


Recommended Posts

Item: Gizzmo Launch Interface (IGN Cut), Gizzmo Dual stage Shift Light, Adapter Loom for RB25 (will most likely fit a RB20 and RB26 too)

Age: 3 months old

Condition: Like Brand new

Price: $420

To Fit: (What car) This will fit a RB25, but I am 90% sure it will also fit a RB26 and RB20, will check and get back to you.

Location: Mackay, North QLD

Contact: Via PM or email. PM for email address, or post in this thread.

Comments: This works 100%. Used it in my RB25 GTS-T and worked a treat. I could make 10psi of boost with my GT3076 at 3500rpm in neutral.

Shift Light setup is so damn easy, as is the launch control RPM setting.

I have made a couple of modifications:

1. I have added the option of a clutch switch (this requires 12v power). There is even a plug that will plug into your existing clutch switch under your dash.

2. Adapter loom - This is worth $180 (part of the package). Its soldered all ready to go. Just plug it into your factory harness and set it up, and off you go.

Also, this shoots some good flames when RPM cutting :D

Please feel free to ask any more questions.

Here are the pics:

g1.jpg

g2.jpg

g3.jpg

g4.jpg

g5.jpg

New, I paid $440 for the Launch interface, and Dual stage Shift light, and an extra $180 for the adapter loom. Then I spent about 2 hours making the loom up and creating the clutch switch circut.

Thats a total of $620 plus labour to install this (could be nearly $800 after installation).

I'm selling for $420. I'll shout postage.

thanks.

Edited by The Mafia

Pretty keen to know the above meself

Have the launch control interface but not the shiftlight yet sitting on the shelf at home

If you can do a bit better on the price pm me

its a Field One touch connector. Same connector I use to re-wire so that I can make a RB26 Powerfc work in a RB20 and RB25.

I can't really do any better on the price because:

Launch Interface and Shiftlight: $400

Field one touch connector: $180

Two hours for me to make the adapter loom:$0 or someone else ($150)

Brand new you're looking at $700+ for this.

  • 3 weeks later...
btw this is sold to me, works a treat! Thanks mate

throw flames? I'd possibly be interested in something like this down the track...

  • 5 weeks later...

Hey mate, I'd be interested in the loom and connector as I have one of these on the way.

  • 4 weeks later...

very rarely.. but they updated the firmware so its not so violent anymore.

throw flames? I'd possibly be interested in something like this down the track...

Can you please explaing to me in detail what te Gizzmo Launch Interface does? Kinda lost..

Edited by Dush

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...