Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

1. Was reading on posts on the forums and some say that they 'boost' there car, whats does this mean?

2. How much was the R34 GT-T original price when it first came out (stock of course)?

3. For a stock R34 GT-T, what car is it compared to performance wise?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189557-simple-questions/
Share on other sites

1. Boost refers to the forcing of air into the engine by means of a turbo... damn that definition sounded good :D Basically boost is the pressure at which the turbo is forcing air into the engine. When people say that they boost their car, it means that they are driving it within the boost range. Driving off boost means the turbo is not spooling and the engine is getting air at atmospheric pressure as apposed to boost pressure.

2. R34 GTT's were never sold in Australia, so if thats the price you're looking for, its not possible. If it was, I'd say it would go for a bit more than the current V35. The only reason I say more is cause of the lack of turbo in the V35. So say $60-70k. Some one can probably estimate better than me.

3. Performance is a very broad term. Supras would probably be similar overall, but you need to be more specific. You could mean track performance, street performace etc etc

Hope this answers your questions

I seem to recall reading an issue of Unique Cars back in 2000 or 2001 that had a then-2 year old GT-t in it for private sale. It was yellow, manual with the Nismo Aero Kit and a sunroof and something like 5,000km on the clock, and the asking price was something like $80k.

Interesting considering back then R34 GT-R's were fetching almost $200,000 (from memory, I might be wrong).

Edited by Bluprint

I have price lists for alot of models going back quite a few year, in japan from the dealers. ie no on road costs. Import duty, taxes and fees plus the importer profit = con.

The v spec gtr in 2000 was 6,000,000 yen, the exchange rate was rat sh@t. point is considering cost of living wise 100 yen = 1 dollar, our car prices are very poor. government import duties and taxes protect high production cost in local manufacturing so we pay too much for cars to keep people working for holden in a job.

sorry off topic

Edited by momo

good answer!!

:laughing-smiley-014:

1. Boost refers to the forcing of air into the engine by means of a turbo... damn that definition sounded good >_< Basically boost is the pressure at which the turbo is forcing air into the engine. When people say that they boost their car, it means that they are driving it within the boost range. Driving off boost means the turbo is not spooling and the engine is getting air at atmospheric pressure as apposed to boost pressure.

2. R34 GTT's were never sold in Australia, so if thats the price you're looking for, its not possible. If it was, I'd say it would go for a bit more than the current V35. The only reason I say more is cause of the lack of turbo in the V35. So say $60-70k. Some one can probably estimate better than me.

3. Performance is a very broad term. Supras would probably be similar overall, but you need to be more specific. You could mean track performance, street performace etc etc

Hope this answers your questions

Thanks for the replies guys.

So just regarding the boost answer, everytime you accelerate you would be utilising the turbo?

hmm...only AU$34,000 brand new... its either the R34 keeps there value or Japan gets them really cheap. I thought it would be around the $40K mark.

As for the performance quastion, i just want to know what it is compared to on paper (i.e. just looking at the specs what is it compared to without driving it).

Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys.

So just regarding the boost answer, everytime you accelerate you would be utilising the turbo?

Someone beat me down if I'm wrong but, turbos usually kick in at certain rpm's. It can be changed when it comes into spooling up by adjusting the actuator (I think) ??? Something along those lines. So basically, if you put your foot to the metal to the other metal it's going to take off. In general though they don't usually kick in much until you get into high revs.

3. For a stock R34 GT-T, what car is it compared to performance wise?

Cheers

It was supposed to compete with BMW M3 of the same era (E36) in Japan. Both has RWD front Inline six engine layout with similar power to weight ratio. Obviously they are plenty other competitors you could name, Supra, RX-7....

It was supposed to compete with BMW M3 of the same era (E36) in Japan. Both has RWD front Inline six engine layout with similar power to weight ratio. Obviously they are plenty other competitors you could name, Supra, RX-7....

Except around a track the RX7 would own all those cars... Having beaten the GTR on a number of occasions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...