Jump to content
SAU Community

When To Get A Second Battery

RusH_

By RusH_,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted

Hey all, just wanting to get some opinions when its best to have a second battery to run your system, ie what components you can run comfortably using the single battery before it becomes a problem,

also,

what would it cost to get a second battery installed somewhere (roughly)(chris?)

and what components you would run off each battery, say the head unit and speakers off the main battery and the subs and amps from the secondary? or something like that.

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189724-when-to-get-a-second-battery/
Share on other sites
blinko Proficient

blinko

Posted
Posted
Hey all, just wanting to get some opinions when its best to have a second battery to run your system, ie what components you can run comfortably using the single battery before it becomes a problem,

also,

what would it cost to get a second battery installed somewhere (roughly)(chris?)

and what components you would run off each battery, say the head unit and speakers off the main battery and the subs and amps from the secondary? or something like that.

Steve

i have 2amps 4speakers headunit and few other things running of one battery and its been fine... just get a volts meter installed and you will be able to see what you are using.. just dont listen to music with your car off for more then 5mins :worship:

Fixxxer Community Regular

Fixxxer

Posted
Posted

Yep, agree with Haysey. If you like to listen to a lot of stuff with the engine off, a good deep cycle battery will be enough, even with a few amps. Even a normal car battery (good one with good CCA and RC) should be fine if you don't listen to the stereo with the car off much. Make sure your ground wires are good including the alternator to battery cable.

Fixxxer

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted
Yep, agree with Haysey. If you like to listen to a lot of stuff with the engine off, a good deep cycle battery will be enough, even with a few amps. Even a normal car battery (good one with good CCA and RC) should be fine if you don't listen to the stereo with the car off much. Make sure your ground wires are good including the alternator to battery cable.

Fixxxer

What about for people who are hitting about 3kw?

str00th Collaborator

str00th

Posted
Posted

Like the other guys are saying a big deep cycle will be fine for most applications. However you're looking at at least $300 bucks new for a shitty one. Id go with something at least 500CCA.

If you want two battery's, you keep your standard battery and get a secondary deep cycle with whats called a "dual battery isolator" they're about $150 bucks.

What happens is when the first battery gets to 50% it swaps to the deep cycle but at the same time it charges both from the alternator.

If you know someone with an AMP meter test your battery load with everything on full and that will give you an indication of what battery you need.

I myself have a Van with a decent system around 140DB and at max volume is drawing 60amps from the battery, the thing is, its a diesel so it has a 60amp alternator which is pretty big and only just keeps it afloat. I think skylines have a 35 or 40amp or something?(correct me if I'm wrong) So you don't wanna be drawing more then your alternator can charge or you battery will be f**ked quick smart. If its not a deep cycle and you flatten it more then two or three times they are just about f**ked and won't hold a charge.

2c

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ah ok, so how much am i looking at for a decent deep cycle battery? to be honest, the most i can see myself running is 4 speakers, 2 amps and at best 2 subs with a double din dvd unit

i would like to be able to listen to tunes with the car off, well, id like to know that if i did the battery wouldnt die, not that i just get in the car and listen to music for the hell of it...

but for peace of mind anyway

str00th Collaborator

str00th

Posted
Posted

You are looking at spending at least $300 anything under that is not worth the plastic its made from.

I can get you one through a distributor. I buy all my batteries from them they are top quality and i highly recommend them as the guy that runs the business sells allot of solar battery boxes and stuff to fiji etc and is a qualified electronic engineer (he knows his stuff)

PM me for more info.

HypeR33 Mentor

HypeR33

Posted
Posted
I'd be considering an earthing upgrade + bigger alternator before a second battery, no use having 2 batteries if you cant charge em.

As Trav33 said...the guys that did mine just recommended a better than standard battery and a bigger alternator. As it is, it is running fine on the standard battery and standard alternator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • AdiR34
      Fender flare widths across front/back of car

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • GTSBoy
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • dbm7
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...