Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Recommendations

Japtastic-UK

By Japtastic-UK,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

S04R3R Rising Star

S04R3R

Posted
Posted

Royal Purple FTW!!! I have run it in my past 3 cars and never had a problem with it what so ever. Oh and its a different coloured oil...i like colours :dry:

It walso did real well in quite a few oil tests. Royal purple and Penrite sin were up the top if i remember right.

abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted

Shell Helix Ultra - full synthetic 5w40 I beliebv the grade is.

Very good oil and well priced.

If you want to spend a little more I would go with the new refined CASTROL EDGE 0w40, also fully synthetic.

"Full synthetic engine oil recommended for the latest technology and prestige engines, including sports cars and luxury sedans."

Or if you have an older motor, you'd be best to use the CASTROL EDGE Sport 10w60.

"Full synthetic engine oil recommended for highly stressed competition engines, older technology sports cars and luxury sedans."

G_Force Community Regular

G_Force

Posted
Posted (edited)
Dont know if we get that purple wtuff over here, put in some 5-40 fully synth, seems to have quitened down the noisy tappetts

40's too thick for running a turbo. Try sumthing like a 30 weight. 5's ok on the lower end, 0 would be better for starting. Think even the manual for an RB recommends a 30, sumone may be able to confirm.

There's also a sticky up top on oils.

Edited by G_Force
Kozeyekan Proficient

Kozeyekan

Posted
Posted
Dont know if we get that purple wtuff over here, put in some 5-40 fully synth, seems to have quitened down the noisy tappetts

contact royal pruple Australia directly (www.royalpurple.com.au) and if they don't have a stockist near by, they'll sell to you directly (they did so with me). I actually had my car sitting in my driveway for 10 months, and no one had started it up (despite the fact I had asked a mate to do just that!) and I got home, connected the battery, put a small amount of royal purple into the engine as a top up, on kick and it's all sweet!

It has not missed a beat or leaked while running RP.

Highly recommend.

Plenty of people say redline is better, and that may very well be true for high end applications, but if Royal Purple can be used in hot rods and drag cars (i.e. chip foose's machines) I don't see a problem with it handling my dear old RB20. Plus Royal Purple is cheaper.

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted

I got castrol 10w-70 in the engine at the moment but im goign to swap to a Mobil1 5w-50. Cos my tuner prefer castraol and im goi nt o swap to mobil very soon. I used mobil 1 all the time and its a good oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...