Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont touch nankangs...!!!!

if on a budget go falkens... i got some bridgestone RE001 adrenalins and have been impressed so far(done some hard drives), and the compound gets softer as it wears down so they will grip better for longer. Highly reccommend trackside tires in bayswater if you are in VIC...

-Ryan

jesus.

will all of you stop talking about a whole brand based on your experience with a single tyre?

which is quicker, a BMW or a Nissan? 318 or GTR? M8 or tiida?

Every brand of tyres has a range of tyres at different price points. And generally the second tier brands will have similar performing tyres at similar prices - and they will be cheaper than the equivalent tyre from a big name brand.

I'm running Nankang 245x40x18's on mine.... no issues whatsoever. Have run them on the strip and track, no real grip problems, can't get wheelspin, but they do start to squeel when taking bends at about 80km/h + (what woudn't with std suspension). For the money I think that they are really good. Paid $165 each at compliance. I also find that they are wearing ok. Done nearly 15,000km no noticable wear.

Edited by Appealing
have the choice of 2 tyre brands for my car at same price... what are your thoughts on both brands

This is like asking someone to choose between a Giant Douche and a Turd Sandwich....

at least 2 members in melb with stageas (me being one) have had this happen, both on the same tyre, and same side at the rear.

did you have enough tyre pressure? and any sharp object poking the tyre? As i know Nankang isa pretty good tyre.

Probably should try Maxxis tyre the Z1

my thoughts are no two cars will ever wear a tyre the same. you have things like ride hights/toe/camber/caster and if you have coil overs is your car corner wieghted right .all depends on your set up no ones wheelalignments are the same,both me and my mate bought nexin tyres and mine chopps them out more then his.

its just how the set up is and how you like it set up. hope this helps.

did you have enough tyre pressure? and any sharp object poking the tyre? As i know Nankang isa pretty good tyre.

Yup ... tyre pressure was fine.

and no sharp objects. I'm pretty sure l posted up a pic of it on here, but according to tyre shop they've seen a few nankangs have the exact same problem, and not just on stagea's.

I'm not ready to buy Korean made tyres yet, I am sure they will improve in time.

My car arrived with German made tyres on it and they were actually really crap! Noisy and worn out (from about 75% tred) to un-roadworthy in 10 thousand Km... I currently like Japanese tyres and toyo in particular. I understand what Duncan is saying and I don't go through a lot of tyres so I can't say I have tried everything. I have had cheap tyres in the past and they have worn well to a point and then lost the plot and gone out of shape or something stupid!

I think of tyres as an important safety feature, so I am not deterred from spending a few extra dollars even if I am miss guided and deluded, it makes me feel better at least!

have the choice of 2 tyre brands for my car at same price... what are your thoughts on both brands

Another thing to consider is that tyres are THE ONLY CONTACT your car has with the road, so even if you have the best suspension, steering, brakes and drive-line combination you could possibly achieve, then it all turns to sh!t if you have ordinary tyres on the car.

If you can afford to spend a bit more, it may well save your life one day, so it's a worthwhile investment. And don't bother comparing brand against brand, it's more "accurate" (I can't think of a better way to describe it right now, but...) to compare TYRE against TYRE.

An example: Falken make two tyres which are at opposite ends of what they may consider "performance" tyres - their Ziex range is total crap (I know this from experience), yet their Azenis range has received lots of praise, and is one of the tyres I'll be considering when I update. Duncan himself swears by them.

An example: Falken make two tyres which are at opposite ends of what they may consider "performance" tyres - their Ziex range is total crap (I know this from experience)

werd

i'm ashamed to say i had 'em fitted to a GT-R :D

This is like asking someone to choose between a Giant Douche and a Turd Sandwich....

The Federal 595SS are not a bad tyre. I've beaten a few high place Dutton competitors in a road rally using 595SS on a relatively standard R32 GTR (only mods were coilovers, exhaust, pods, and Mines ECU) while they were on semi slicks. Don't get me wrong - they're nowhere near semi slick performance, nor are they the best street tyre out there, but they are a long way from being rubbish!

I've had 2 sets of them and wouldn't hesitate to buy them again.

I've used falken 326 (on the gtst at compliance) fk451 (on the gtst, 350 and stagea) and their slick (or the race car last weekend) I can guarantee there is a range of performance in a single brand lol.

the fk451s were good for a 1.57 around Eastern Creek in a stock gtst (160rwkw). The slicks 1.50 with a 240awkw gtr. The 326? only good for killing yourself in the wet.

I've got the federal 595SS on the front of the Z and they are great for the price, but the 451s on the rear are better.

On my Stagea I have used the following (I ranked them best to worst)

Michelin Pilot Preceda - $1100 a set

Kuhmo ECSTA SPT's - $800 a set

Hankook K104 ($650) / Federal SS595 ($550)

*insert very big gap in performance here*

Nankang NS2's ($free)

Nankang 505's (or something) ($came with car)

Wanli something ($borrowed)

Hills runs on all of them. Lots of driving. I never got more than 10,000km out a set of tyres (so, I really do test em :()

Nankangs were not TERRIBLE in dry, but wet was SHIT. The WANLI's, well, if it was raining and I stalled it up and launched, I would 4wd spin all through first. None of the others would do more than chirp the fronts.

I am going to be buying Kuhmo's this time (yep, new tyre time now)

The lower end of scale - best life - cheapest price - worst performance. Top end of scale - worst life - most expensive - best performance......this is the irony of tyres ey?

I us Federals all the time

Stag uses 215/40/18s on 18x9 all around

Cedric uses 225/35/19 on a 9j and 235/35/19 on a 10j

After tons of camber, tons of KM, no problems

they grip well, are easy to mount even with huge Stretches that i do.

i can fully reccomend federals

plus i have 8 extra 18 inch tires sitting here for drifting lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...