Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Ssqv Installation Question

EVL-R33

By EVL-R33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just received and installed a HKS SSQV Bov into my RB25DET the simple way, but after the installation I noticed on the instructions which came with it says to disconnect the battery (-) cable.. I didnt do this, does anyone know why it needs to be done prior to installation? or is it OK to leave it connected whilst installing?

Also, im getting a real bad boost drop when changing gears, almost as if its leaking.. Has anyone else got this problem with the new SSQV?

Cheers.

Edited by EVL-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190441-hks-ssqv-installation-question/
Share on other sites
EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
the reason they say 2 disconnect the battery is so that incase you touch sumthing u shouldnt and cause damage to the ecu or anything else

ah ok.. thanks 4 the quick reply raps86 :cheers:

does anyone know why im getting a bad boost drop when changing gears? almost as if the car is gonna stall..

Edited by EVL-R33
Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

Atmo valves can do this...

As the stock ecu is realying/expecting on return air post AFM...

By putting in a atmo valve your not returning the charged air back to the intake, hence the ecu is missing a huge chunck of "counted" air... So lack of air causes the engine to stall/labour for a second while the intake catchs back up to real time data being feed from the afm... Does this make sence?

The way to get round this is get a PFC or similar after market ecu which can be tuned with atmo valves and not have stalling issues...

r33cruiser Grand Master

r33cruiser

Posted
Posted

hey evl. i have had my hks ssq on my line for about 1yr. many people claim stalling issues. but it has NEVER happened to me. i think it is an urban myth that affects 10% of the population.

perhaps, the spring is too loose. i suggest tightening the screw on top of the bov. also from my experience, make sure the vacuum hose is on properly, same goes for the plumb back hose. ive forgotten this once and stalled 100m from my driveway :cheers:

EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Atmo valves can do this...

As the stock ecu is realying/expecting on return air post AFM...

By putting in a atmo valve your not returning the charged air back to the intake, hence the ecu is missing a huge chunck of "counted" air... So lack of air causes the engine to stall/labour for a second while the intake catchs back up to real time data being feed from the afm... Does this make sence?

The way to get round this is get a PFC or similar after market ecu which can be tuned with atmo valves and not have stalling issues...

Makes sence what your saying, but I have a PFC installed with a Z32 AFM and its been tuned on an atmo GFB BOV previously.. I had no problems with the GFB, but I thought id give the SSQV a go..

I have the newest SSQV so there is NO pressure regulator on it and I cant tighten the valve spring..

When the valve opens to release the air into the atmo, it takes longer to close than the GFB i previously had, so when I accelarate again after changing gears the valve is still open for a second and the air doesnt get into the plenum causing a stall/labour..

On a positive note, the SSQV holds boost much better than the GFB i previously had..

Edited by EVL-R33
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...