Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

here's my ceff, Uras NS-01

17 x 9.5 +15 front, s14 LCA's, 20mm flared front

17 x 9.5 +15 rear with 25mm spacer= -10, custom flared metal guards

needs more low tho :)

post-53947-1238666699_thumb.jpg

post-53947-1238666829_thumb.jpg

technically yes, but if you imagined the spacer was apart of the wheel, the wheel would be neg 10.

Rear gaurds are pimp NICKCEFFY, haha you can see half the rear tyre pretty much.

demsA31 also looks the goods, makes me want a kit..

Cheers mate,

yeh love the big proper formed guards!!

makes me wanna do the laurel now as well, but then i've gotta get new rims for that as well!!! :cheers:

Edited by NICKCEFFY

3411412010_45fbdd1f01_b.jpg

Flushhhhhhhhh

3410600977_f8c896383d_b.jpg

Pants tighten everytime you look in the side mirror and just see the edge of the wheel chillin outside the guard.

3411414688_efc6a4ab30_b.jpg

Flushhh FAIL in the front by about 1.5cm. Didn't realise that the guard would flex so much when rolled. will need to get longer bolts and space it out or buy more Godfathers... MOAR GODFATHERS!!!1!

3410601569_01b8fdb4fb_b.jpg

3411414030_fefd61cd32_b.jpg

Fronts are 18x8.5 +35 (with a 3mm spacer to clear the strut) and rears are 18x9.5 +35 (perfect IMHO for cef)

Tyres are 215/40/18 in front and 225/40/18 in the rear, which tucks in under the rolled guard nicely, and still retains the crease line on the guard.

If I was to get another paid for the front I'd go 18x9" with a +25 or +26 offset. That would clear the strut AND space the outside of the wheel to be FLUSHHHHH with guard.

I might try R33 LCA's to try and push the track out a lil, but with the car running shocks and springs instead of coilovers, I can't have camber tops to cancel out the negative camber longer LCA's will give me :cool: Or is my theory flawed?

Hey man, wheels look good..could have gone a few mm lower, but Im a fan of low offset :devil:

Funky, yours look good too. Maybe a slightly skinnier rims with lower offset would be good, avoid having to use spacers?

Hey man, wheels look good..could have gone a few mm lower, but Im a fan of low offset :devil:

Funky, yours look good too. Maybe a slightly skinnier rims with lower offset would be good, avoid having to use spacers?

I wanted to go +25, But I couldn't find any that I liked.

(You were responding to me, right?)

Edited by DanShirts

yeah I'm gonna keep looking out for anothe rpair of godfathers in 9" with a +25 offset for the front, till i find them I'm just gonna lengthen the hub bolts and run 20mm spacers on the ones I have now to bring em out.

Cant really tell you about these rims.. Off a mates HR31, 16" 225/40 I think.. Knew the offset would be horrible, but we did it anyway! :banana:

3036_66916592850_717762850_1614745_6932323_n.jpg

Never bothered to put the suspension back in the front after Regency, as I drive it everyday. Not worth the hassle..So sit on the bonnet it was!

3036_66916597850_717762850_1614746_603535_n.jpg

3036_66916617850_717762850_1614749_557160_n.jpg

3036_66916632850_717762850_1614752_7913788_n.jpg

3036_66916602850_717762850_1614747_6739317_n.jpg

Was all for shits and giggles. :banana:

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...