Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nuts! What about front ? Rubbing anywhere ? :D

17x9.5+18 driftek on the front.

10/8 coilovers on full hard take care of any scrubbing issues. rear guards are pumped as much as possible without buckling.

still some slight scrubbing issues on the inner guard but the hammer will sort that.

well i have 17*9 + 20 and they sit out of the guards a fair bit. I'm running 235/45/17.

an extra .5 inch would make it .25" on either side of the wheel (6.4mm) then the +18 offset would make it sit 2mm more outwards (compared to mine). So it would be a total of 8mm more than mine.

th_08102007307.jpg

Also, being 18" instead of 17" would make them closer to the arch in terms of diameter.

Nothing a bit of guard pumpage and tyre stretch won't fix.

Edited by daisu
  • 1 year later...

I've trial fitted some 17 x 9 +10 Work Meisters (F = 215/45/17, R= 225/45/17) from a mate who is selling them. I love the look of them on the car :( , but just a little concerned about how much rolling/pumping of the guards will need to be done, primarily to the rear with the door aligning so close to the guard. Currently I'm only getting some light scrubbing on the rear with a bit of aggressive driving. How have you guys gone with rolling/flaring of the rear? much paint cracked? or what are yours thoughts as in would I be better off going for some different rims with a better offset?

post-6925-1236476838_thumb.jpgpost-6925-1236476869_thumb.jpg

I've trial fitted some 17 x 9 +10 Work Meisters (F = 215/45/17, R= 225/45/17) from a mate who is selling them. I love the look of them on the car :D , but just a little concerned about how much rolling/pumping of the guards will need to be done, primarily to the rear with the door aligning so close to the guard. Currently I'm only getting some light scrubbing on the rear with a bit of aggressive driving. How have you guys gone with rolling/flaring of the rear? much paint cracked? or what are yours thoughts as in would I be better off going for some different rims with a better offset?

post-6925-1236476838_thumb.jpgpost-6925-1236476869_thumb.jpg

He lives! :D

Edited by konect
haha sure do ryan! Gave up on the car scene for awhile with other interests but did a deca day recently and feeling the bug again.. :P

Got your ceffy on the road and registered yet?

As of Tuesday...YES!! :wave:

Check out my members ride thread. Will post new offset pics after the w/e.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...