Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fully understand your point I have seen these power outputs in Adelaide not usre of the life of this though so you might be right with that one as any major increase in power will sure kill the standard turbo in the long run. But this figure is not impossible and MAYBE with multi stage boost controller can achieve this when it is needed then back to a reliable amount of boost to protect the turbo. But then you are looking at more expences.

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'll bet your car on it that you will get over 200rwkw :ninja:
bro u said over 200rwkw now ur saying over 250rwkw thats a big difference there mate. make up ur mind 50rwkw is a big difference.

Because I stated that as a comment BRO! And these are all estimates like my other statement "i would imagine around the 250rwkw+ mark"

you won't see over 200rwkw without something done to the turbo and injectors...
Stock turbo and injectors can't make 250rwkw except on a very happy dyno. 190-210rwkw.

Well I am happy to say I am wrong but I would do know that with cam gears major increase is gained with standard turbo etc with exhaust and maybe ecu and even bppst upto 1bar if the budget will allow the firtment of a intercooler then i would imagine over 210rwkw and closer to my result of AROUND 250rwkw.

Well I know that since a Neo motor standard is around!!!!!! 206kw which at the wheels is AROUND 180rwkw GIVE or TAKE as I don’t work for NASA and this is not crucial for the lives of crew members then I think that we all can give a little slack in our gestimations on power out put.

So I have seen Neo Motors get over the 220rwkw mark AND NO before you ask I don’t have proof on me so I would imagine that it is not an impossible feet to reach a output greater then 200kw as some say is almost impossible to reach.

Now without writing a book

I seen allot of tuning in Adelaide and by different people. These tunes may not be safe but can be done. Maybe 250 was a little high but I don’t think it is impossible to get close to it

What's the matter with you boys you jump to argue just like year 7 school boys about who's got bigger pecker ccc...! :laughing-smiley-014:

The new guy just wanted some simple mods advise to get started and still be safe and legal.

All you doing is confusing the bloke and he most likely doesn't understand your jargon.

Dave :)

Just stick to a new intake pod and turbo-back exhaust for now mate.

And if you decide to throw on a boost controller stay at 10psi or lower, stock turbo's are ceramic and very weak.

Before thinking about anything major (turbo/injectors/fuel pump/ECU/front mount/suspension/wheels) make a plan of what you want, make a budget, and find some reputable places to buy parts and mechanics and tuners who will put it all together for you.

For street use i wouldn't go crazy because you'll smash most cars performance-wise with only a few mods to the R34.

Have fun!

a car is a hell of a lot more than brakes, driveline and suspension. well maybe not a hell of a lot but still...dont forget that things break, wear out, need fixing etc. fair enough its a r34 but unless its straight off the showroom floor, you are gonna need to think about these things too (tyres, servicing, etc).

I'm running a R34 GT non turbo, and i have to say the first thing i noticed was the suspension is rather bouncy along with a set of avg yamma tires... Personally i'm gonna work on that area... hopefully stop me from "Auto-drifting" into peoples faces!!!!!!! lol.

- In terms of power they output just under 200KW Base normally i've found; prob not worth bouncing up the power till you can go around a corner without hitting the fences!

* in all honestly, some EDC Red's wouldn't hurt either, i've currently got worn out Nismos on it and being on my L's atm isn't helping.

NEHOOOO!!!! long live NSW.

Cya all at Wiseman's Ferry. - Peace.

HAHA donut dave is right now I am confused is there a simple systematic method of modifying the car? say for example 1st exhaust 2nd air filter 3rd etc. Also thinking abt putting a kit on my car too. Where can I go check out some body kits saw on one of the recent posts with a white 34 loved that body kit..Like reading the posts how you guys were arguing but I didn't understand any of it. Thanks alot guys I am slowing getting to understand the complex world of modifying. Will post a pic of my baby soon.

mate,

the first mods to look at what Id suggest are

intake mods (hi-flow panel filter in airbox) or a pod with a cold air feed and a turbo back exhaust at the same time.

after that?

springs and shocks and a kit somewhere in between

they are small basic mods, but the car will be more alive and you'll love it....for a small amount of time! :)

there are general guidelines but every one does it different. thats what makes the car your own. for exxy, my plan is this (performance only): finish zorst, r34 smic, boost control and guage, safc, fuel stuff etc. some ppl may get the safc first or boost, or something completely different. the best advice i can give you is this - research research research, on sau, other sites, other owners, anywhere. know what a mod does to/for your car b4 you do it. that way you are less likely to do damage, get ripped off and waste cash

good luck man :)

yeh i am slowly researching but there is just too much jargon and it all so confusing lol i dont know where to start haha is there some sort of function where all the members bring out there cars and take for a drive i know some ppl with hondas who take there rides for group cruises would like to go for a cruise like that and have a look at ur guys rides and also have a look at ur mods etc

I read this forum for 3 months solid before I bought my car. It took me another 4 years to get where I am now in terms of knowledge. There is still tons I don't know.

Read, read, read. Ask questions along the way, but ask them like, 'what is this?' rather than 'what is better?'. You figure out what's better yourself. That's the fun of it all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...