Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for $5k more you can have my 34... ;)

As for writeoffs, a friend purchased a WRX from a caryard, later he found out it was an economic wrieoff in NSW, they fixed it, shipped it over here and rego'd it...... It can happen, not sure on the legal grounds.

How many test pilots and time wasters did you have ?

Im about to hang the next 1 :)

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The sad truth is that most of us are driving japanese write offs. (economical)

The cost of repairs there is prohibitive and most are repaired in australia . Plus , correct me if im wrong , aftrer a car hits 5years old , it needs an inspection every year , plus if its crashed (even slightly) its deemed unregistable.

As far as the quote of 200rwks , I would ask for a recent dyno print out.

Good luck in the car purchase though and remember to trust your gut.

cheers for that info. i havent heard of anything regarding the 5yr rule. my all of my cars bar my current have been older than 5yrs. i know there is something in te eastern states with roadworthy checks being done. on that topic, what tings fitted to the car are defectable. i think its the bov, exhaust db level and hopefully thats it. are front mounts legal? and 18" wheels.

The car MUST be street legal for the caryard to sell it (dosen't mean it is) .

Rims can be 1 " bigger than stock I think so unless its a GTR , no they are illegal (correct me if im wrong)

Plumb back blow off valves are'nt illegal (depending on the copper looking under the hood)

One place for you to lookout for though is the shock strut towers under the bonnet , Look to see if the welds are identicle on both sides.

i found out from the dealer that the car is from strathalbyn. i was told the guys name but i wont post it on a forum. if anyone was the owner of a maroon r33 gts-t that has the mods mentioned above and maybe more, or knows of it, it'd be cool to have some feedback on it. all the previous ideas have been helpful too guys. also had a aftermarket heavy duty clutch.

dude just get it checked out mate the person who owned probly aint on here and no-one can give u a straight answer coz have not seen the car inperson ask the car yard guy can u take it to your mechanic for full engine check etc dnt be bitten mate just my 2 bobs gl with it mate. :ninja:

Sounds like it might be redgtst's car - I think he was from out that way.

It wouldnt be, see the replies below:

Does it have a 400R front and GTR rear wing? If so, be wary!! Redgtst crashed his 33 a few months back and it was an economical write off. May be repaired, so have it inspected whatever you do. if they refuse to allow an inspection, DONT BUY IT!
If an insurance company declare it a write off (economical or otherwise) it can not be registered again in Australia.(the costs make it prohibitive with engineering inspections etc for regency - and it MUST have a FULL regency inspection)

I found this out when I was looking at buying back my car after front end damage. (I would be able to fix it but never register it again) My only alternative was to take it to another repairer who was able to fit some "Reconditioned" parts rather than new from Nissan parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...