Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, yeah newbie asking question. My alternator is making a funny noise. I got the mechanic to check it out when i bought my car he said it was fine. But yeah its making a funny noise. What is the worst case scenerio that could occur. Alternator fcuking up the engine or turbo??? I'm totally new at this and learning. please explain in detail if possible. thanks - how much to get a new alternator too btw - fitted?

(this is my 1st car and I'm learning) - Yes yes I know I'm stupid, dont have to tell me that. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19232-alternator-fcuking-up-car/
Share on other sites

Alternator fcuking up the engine or turbo???

your alternator recharges the battery, if it is broken it wont rechage the battery hence you wont be able to start your car after a while etc etc.... and it wont run right....are u sure it is the altenator? there a many things in the engine bay down there??? :confused:

Bryan i suggest you just leave it for now. i remember u said that if u left ur lights on the batery would die. it may be the battery but it also maybe the alternator not charging it as akeenan said. The alternators in 33's are pretty weak if your one does go bust i suggest u look at gettin a bigger unit or else asking wreckers. The noise is coming from the alternator, a new alternator could cost anywhere from $100-$1000, my dad had to get a new one for his MG and it cost $480, but your car starts where as his didnt at all so yeah you should be right for a while yet

Worse case scenerio - if the alternator goes, beside not being able to start the car, could it do anything serious damage? Any recommendations on batteries i should get? I'm kinda strain on budget so I might have to visit the local wreckers AGAIN for a battery.

I got a new Century battery for mine 3 weeks ago for $65 and comes with 3 yr warranty. If you know anyone with a multi-metre just hook it across your battery, engine off you should have about 12 volts any less and your battery is dead or dying, engine going with a few revs, should be about 14 volts, it not, your alternator is dead or dying. Apart from not charging your battery a dead alternator cannot do any other damage.

tru tru.$65 whoa. Supercheat has their shitty brand cost more than that, and only 1 one year warrant.y WHERE CAN I BUY THAT CENTURY ONE FROM? Please post or pm me place or contact. I'm very interested. thanks

and yeah the noise from the alternator is giving me the shits!

Hey

just wanted to note that my altenator makes that noise as well, seems to get louder as i switch on headlights, fogs etc, plus, my friends Z32 makes the exact same noise...

I should get it checked out sumtime but apparently, its the bearings in the altenator, according to someone i cant remember :P

Oh yeah

n when my fan is working, either the belt, or bearing, or something in the system makes an annoying sort of squeeky noise...very annoying if you are on the spot, in a quiet place..

My alternator sounded like it was about to pack it in more than a year ago, and sounded bad leading up to that. Sounds ok now, no idea why.

Bryan -- get under the bonnet and look at whats connected to what, there is no wiring going to your turbo, so theres no way the alternator could stuff it!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...