Jump to content
SAU Community

RB20 Diagnostics result (knock sensor) questions

Cool Hand Luke
 Share

Recommended Posts

Cool Hand Luke Community Regular

Cool Hand Luke

Posted
Posted

I ran the diagnostics on my ecu and it came back with 2. 34 and 54 which are 34:Knock sensor and 54: auto send to ecu or something... 54 is explainable because there is no auto on it anymore. How much will it cost for a new knock sensor, and where is it on the engine so i can change it? Is there just one?

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

hey i also showed up code 34: knock sensor... so this applies to me as well

what does the knock sensor look like? i'm pretty sure i have no knock / pinging but it shows up knock sensor in the diagnostics

i would have thought this means the sensor is stuffed rather than the engine is knocking... anyone know for sure?

  • 11 months later...
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

My thing is giving the same fault, im all excited that this may be the reason why my car is overly laggy... had a quick go at reaching the knock sensor, but it appears to be a job requiring jacking up the car and accessing them from the underside of the car

So whats the go, remove the sensor, clean and with some terminal cleaner etc and re-install, or does it typically mean the sensor is faulty.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Removing the plug from the knock sensor is similar to opening a bottle of metho - you need to squeeze the plastic cover in the right place to let it release the "catch". Then the connector simply slides off.

Your problem is probably that the connector is loose, and making an intermittent connection. (The error is due to a short or disconnection of the wire, not from the fact that the engine has "pinged")

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Predator1
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Predator1 · Posted

      Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • GTSBoy
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Kinkstaah
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • AdiR34
      r34 Skyline 25 Gt four GTR conversion (ENR34)

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...