Jump to content
SAU Community

Changing Rego Over To Qld...roadworthiness...

pixel8r

By pixel8r,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys,

sorry if this question gets asked all the time...

I'm looking at moving to brisbane within the next few months and one thing I'm not sure of is how I'll go transferring my rego over to QLD plates. I live in SA now and the car's all legally registered etc.

but SA dont have roadworthy cert's so I'll need to get me one of those.

How do you go with these on modified skylines etc (I own a stagea) - will I need to remove my manual boost controller and reconnect the stock solenoid? and will I need to disconnect my SAFC? Those are the only two things I think I'd have any issues with. Oh and when I had the exhaust fitted they removed the heatshield above the turbo saying it didn't fit any more - so do I need to get some kind of heat shield put back on there?

I just dont want any hassle with it cos otherwise its gonna be a pain in the neck and an extra cost I dont need on top of moving costs etc.

I should mention that the above mods (well, everything thats in my sig) were done AFTER it was registered here in SA.

Most of this stuff is well out of sight and you wouldn't find it unless you were looking for it. And also, the car looks stock, and is quite safe etc. and runs quiet and more than likely has less emissions than when it was stock.

So how strict are most mechanics with these roadworthy inspections? Will I be ok as is or will I need to return it completely back to stock?

Edited by pixel8r
todd0 Apprentice

todd0

Posted
Posted

Hey buddy, they don't inspect your car i heard that, but i transfered mine a few months ago and they didnt i just got a roadworthy

, i don't think any of your upgrades would be a problem. i could give you the number of the guy that did mine if u like. youd be better off ringing and asking him,

ToMMaH Proficient

ToMMaH

Posted
Posted

I brought mine in from NSW. Step 1:Get RWC Step 2:go to QLD Transport and fill out the form for unregistered vehicle as its from out of state. Give them your old plates and $$$... Done. Rego sticker will be in the mail and new plates handed to you.

RWC won't be too difficult, most mechanics arn't $%^&*'s about it. You shouldn't have a problem with the 3 things you mentioned. If you do you can always go elsewhere for another RWC.

As for them looking at your vehicle at QLD Transport.... lol..... like those old women in the office would know what they are looking at. It's all in the paperwork.

Dan_B Mentor

Dan_B

Posted
Posted

Yer what you have listed there isnt a problem up here, pretty much as long as nothing is hanging off, no oil dripping out, and the tyres are ok, as well as the wipers/washers and all exterior lights work you will be fine.

Most mechanics up here are ok, best bet is to use a mechanic shop that deals alot with imports, then once you got the RWC its as the others said, over to the transport department, fill in the papers and pay the cash for the rego.

good luck with the move

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

they do check the car, but all they check is that the engine number on the engine matches the engine number from the previous registration

as mentioned the form isfor an unregistered vehicle

i moved up from VIC and sold my car up here still registered in Vic. i did some research and got all the forms for the owner. the forms are all available from the QLD transport website. all you do is fill out the form and fill in that it has been previously registered in another state. provide the engine number and vin i think and then go down to QLD transport. should cost you nothing. give in your old plates and grab a set of new ones :thumbsup:

and better get a QLD lisence while you're there.. unfortunately still have laminated pieces of shit in QLD but its better to be safe than sorry and risk a fine

cheers,

Warren

dano4127 Veteran

dano4127

Posted
Posted
they do check the car, but all they check is that the engine number on the engine matches the engine number from the previous registration

as mentioned the form isfor an unregistered vehicle

i moved up from VIC and sold my car up here still registered in Vic. i did some research and got all the forms for the owner. the forms are all available from the QLD transport website. all you do is fill out the form and fill in that it has been previously registered in another state. provide the engine number and vin i think and then go down to QLD transport. should cost you nothing. give in your old plates and grab a set of new ones :)

and better get a QLD lisence while you're there.. unfortunately still have laminated pieces of shit in QLD but its better to be safe than sorry and risk a fine

cheers,

Warren

so what happens if the numbers are different due to purchasing another engine?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • dawhitehonky
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By dawhitehonky · Posted

      I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • GTSBoy
      Rapid-fire squeaking/creaking from rear suspension

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...