Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

depends on how bad it is...the prefered method would be to get it professionally cut out and resprayed..I've got a spot as well but its on the inside of the bootlid...got quoted bout $400 to cut and reweld and respray the whole bootlid...which is about the same price of buying a 2nd hand one...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-3461570
Share on other sites

The rust around that area is bloody common isn't it. Why's that? Does water get trapped behind the brake lights easily or something? Would you use some sort of silicon around the light to stop water from getting to that area?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-3462340
Share on other sites

i reckon water leaks quite easy through these areas due to rubber seals drying when out coming from Japanese to Australian climate conditions.

i have the same problem next to my spoiler on my boot lid. 33 though :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-3464680
Share on other sites

lol, i was thinkin of mayb jus pullin out the light and givin it a light sand to remove the rust, i suppose that would give me the chance to check the seal too, if it is the seal that is shitty, does any1 know where i can get me another one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-3465368
Share on other sites

lol, i was thinkin of mayb jus pullin out the light and givin it a light sand to remove the rust, i suppose that would give me the chance to check the seal too, if it is the seal that is shitty, does any1 know where i can get me another one?

rush can u show us a pic mate ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-3466405
Share on other sites

as for ya getting the rust sorted; bring it to a few reccommended panel beaters and get a quote from each of them on getting rust cut out, re-welded, and boot resprayed. go with which ever one youre happy with.

there are short cuts that panel beaters can take from welding - ie - bog job, but if not done properly, rust wil return in the near future thereafter.

if ya do get this procedure done, get them to strip that spoiler as well! :worship:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-3478510
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...

Hi guys

Sorry to bump a very old thread but I have a valid question.

I have the smallest amount of rust which has appeared on my R34 GTR. As per thread, the surface rust is on the right-hand corner of the center brake light. I will eventually remove the light and get rid of the rust. Does anyone know where I can buy another seal for the brake light from? Or what would be suitable substitution for the foam seal around the light?

Cheers

fqXjEdZ.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-7701680
Share on other sites

Make sure to fully dry the area after washing the car. That area traps water, same thing is happening on my 200 and the 34

Yeah, I know now for sure. I've only washed the car once since I've had it. That's when I actually noticed it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192698-r34-rust/#findComment-7701730
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...