Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...gory_Code=GTNBB

Am thinking bout buying this as the aussie dollar is so high, ATM I have an rb25, i'll have to put in stronger internals so I may go a RB25/30. Should I buy this one or a GT4082.

I know that they are journal bearing but that doesn't really concern me, I like em cause their cheap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193116-gt4088-journal-for-600hp/
Share on other sites

I Think that you misunderstood. I'm not saying that it's all that I can afford. what I meant was that I don't feel that I need to spend $2000 on a turbo when that one would do the trick. I could use the difference for some other part of the build.

Now if it cost very simmilar coin to build a built RB25/30 to a built RB25, I am thinking that the hybrid will get a GT4088 onto boost that little quicker.

So it is not the overall cost of the project that is of concern, it is the cost to benefit of modifications that concerns me.

looking at the comp map for the GT4082 it doesn't seem to have enough flow for 600Hp. could be wrong. is there anyone out there using this turbo getting 600Hp.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...82_452232_5.htm

I feel that the GT4088 is more suited to 600Hp, but is the 1.06 AR turbine is too big for a RB25.

I feel that the GT4088 is more suited to 600Hp, but is the 1.06 AR turbine is too big for a RB25.

I assume you are looking at 600hp @ wheels? Because a GT3582R will do 600hp @ crank quite happily. GT4088Rs have been used on RB25s and RB26s with .81a/r rear ends and aren't too laggy for their size, definitely better suited than a T04Z for a RWD turbo street car looking for the 600hp @ wheels power area from what I have seen. If I even lost the plot, its where I'd look.

Cheers lithium, I agree that a GT3582R will do 600hp, However I was thinking bout Journal Bearing for a large single. Mainly due to the fact that the garrett GT Journal series seems to be good value for this power level.

I understand that they maybe laggier than the BB Units, It's a compromise that I can live with.

Cheers lithium, I agree that a GT3582R will do 600hp, However I was thinking bout Journal Bearing for a large single. Mainly due to the fact that the garrett GT Journal series seems to be good value for this power level.

I understand that they maybe laggier than the BB Units, It's a compromise that I can live with.

Are you wanting over or around 600hp @ crank? It will be a lot laggier being that its quite a bit larger size, very cool/impressive looking turbo though. If you are "just" looking for GT35R type power have you considered something along the lines of a Precision SC61, a T3/T04S from ATP, an HX35/40 etc... quite a few cheaper plain bearing options out there.

Thinking about the T04S with the 1.00 divided housing.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=TBN

Remember reading that the newer GT Journal turbos were more resposive than these with the P trim turbine.

You can buy a large frame ball bearing version of that T4 P/60-1 , its known as a "T4R" and its on ATP's site . Its cartridge is the basis of Garretts T04Z one , just with that 60-1 compressor instead of the Z's one . They were cheap when released for a big frame BB turbo .

Your call but anyone who runs a GT4088R with that single scroll 0.81 A/R turbine housing , which is not a Garrrett housing but aftermarket ie PTE , hates performance and likes lag . A lot of smarts went into Garretts GT4088R and they include a twin scroll turbine housing . I think Precision actually intended that 81 housing to go on an expensive hybrid turbo they created called the GT4067R , that one is basically a GT4088R cartridge but with the T04Z's compressor and a custom backplate . They didn't exactly set the world on fire so you won't see too many .

Cheers A .

  • 2 weeks later...

That ones a regular GT3582R with the "Farmer Brown" twin scroll turbine housing . Those housings are hard to find in the US so you won't see buckets of them either .

Note in the pick that the mount flange size is T4 but the inlets are more like T4 Euro which is improperly know as twin scroll T3 . Cubes , remember how you had to port your turbine housing inlet to match your manifold ...

God you people would laugh if you knew the size of the piddly dinosaur turbine thats std for that housing .

As I said rumors claim Garrett will have a twin scroll GT35 1.06 A/R turbine housing available next year but don't hold your breath .

Cheers a .

Just looked at the pic again, yeah that turbine inlet is kinda small.

Ok, so out of these options for 500-600hp.

T04S (1.00AR)

T67 aka T04R (1.00AR)

Gt4088 (1.06AR)

TO4S BB (1.00AR) if significantly better that journal bearing.

Or any other options that maybe more suited at this price range.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...