Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah sure have, works well. but count the bushes down there, there are 16 from memory once you count upper and lower, inner and outer. I think they are all the same. Be careful with the noltec website though, their catalogue was not right when i got them a few years back

i did mine not long ago... was a full on prick of a job to get the old bushes out, ended up using an oxy torch and a vice. Better off taking the arms out yourself then paying someone to remove the old bushes as its just not worth the headache. The new bushes go in easy enough

Removal is a bit of a saga without a press. I drilled through the rubberwith an 1/8inch drill or there abouts and pressed the crush tube out with a vice, then hacksawed a couple of slots in the outer about 2mm apart and used a pin punch to roll that out. It took about 10-15 minutes per bush once i got the hang of it. The trick is to go slow with the hacksaw so you don't cut right through into the arm itself, then using the punch you tear the strip out and leave the arm undamaged.

I found that the lower control arm inner bush numbers in the catalogue to be wrong. There are 2 possible sizes. You need to measure yours before ordering and make sure it gets passed on to noltec. I got the same wrong bushes sent out twice before finally getting the right ones (they were numbered as z32 ones on the packaging).

Installation is a piece of cake. no press required.

i took the factory bushes apart today ,it seems that the only thing that wears and causes the unwanted movement,is the plastic inserts that sit inside between the metal bush and the crush tube,so why cant we just buy these?

post-13324-1195200687_thumb.jpg

post-13324-1195200709_thumb.jpg

dude!

Your picture up top is the rear bushes. You are ripping out the fronts which is a completely different process! And different size bushes too.

There's a collar that you just smack with a hammer and a chisel (or screwdriver) It takes the whole bush out as a unit. They are the easiest bush to remove of all the suspension bushes. You can see the collar in your photo above my last post.

you know its been ages since I've seen the stock ones, but I thought they were 1 piece rubber with a metal crush tube in the center. Looks like yours have been changed at some stage unless I am mad

*disclaimer* I may well be mad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...