32 Gtr Error Codes

[paulR32gtr]

I think one of my AFM's is on the blink.

I am going to turn my ECU on to diagnostic mode but I can't get my hands on a list of the codes - does anyone have them?

Also - once I turn it into diag mode am I correct that the ECU will use the exhaust temp light on the dash to communicate the error codes?

[Rekin]

Would rb20 codes be same as gtr?

Here's a list if it is

Diagnostic for the rb20det ECU

The ECU is in the passenger footwell, behind the plastic kickplate to the left of your feet. You'll have to remove the computer from the mounts in the footwell, as the led/leds you'll need to see are pointing towards the front of the car. Switch on the ignition but don't start engine, the led on the ECU will begin glowing turn the selector screw clockwise all the way.

There's three types of factory ecu in Skylines, One type has two LEDs and five modes, the other type has one LED and two modes and the last type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine check light in the instrument cluster.

For two led ecus the led will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five this is the diagnostic mode Mode 1 = one flash, mode 5 = five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter-clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use.

For one led ecus wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter-clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2 the engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer.

The led will flash out a code or series of codes if there is more than one fault More recent ECU's have two LED's red is first digit, green is second digit, eg red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21. The ecus on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit, eg long, long, short = code 21.

Codes:

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit

13 Coolent temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal.

There is also a O2 sensor test in real time available - do the above to get the ECU into mode 2 (single LED ECU) or mode 1 (2 LED ECU's) Start the engine. Warm the engine, and then run under no load at 2000 rpm for the test. Single LEDs: on = lean, off = rich Dual LED's: green LED on = lean, green LED off = rich

Remove the speed limiter:

Cut wire #53 on the ECU harness to disable the 180 kph speed cut. The wire is yellow/green with a silver trace. Insulate the bare ends with tape. There has been talk that this effects the hicass, but from what i've seen posted around the net driveability of the car is not changed.

*Warning*

If you cut wire #53 all it does it prevent you from exiting the HICAS DIAGNOSTIC mode… Its therefore better to place this speed cut on a switch so you can still exit easily.

rb20det eccs control unit pin layout.

1 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #1

2 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #5

3 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #3

5 engine. A/T control input signal (bt1)

6 Sub electrical fan relay (engine temp switch)

7 Tacometeter speed signal

9 AC relay (AC cut signal)

10 Ground (ign signal system)

11 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #6

12 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #2

13 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #4

14 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt2)

15 engine. a/t control input sigal (bt3)

16 ECCS relay

18 fuel pump relay

19 Power steering switch

20 Ground (ignition signal system)

21(RX) Receive (control unit data reception)

22 (TX) Transmit (data sent from control unit)

23 Detonation sensor 1 (cyl 1-3)

24 Detonation sensor 2 (cyl 4-6)

26 Air flow meter ground

27 Air flow meter intake air quantity signal

28 Engine temp sensor

29 Exhaust gas sensor

30 Sensor ground (throttle sen, ENG temp)

31 clock (synchronization signal)

32 Monitor and check lamp (red)

38 Throttle opening output

41 Crank angle sensor (120degree signal)

42 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)

43 Ignition switch START signal

44 Neutral switch

45 Ignition switch (IGN)

46 AC switch

47 (CHK) Check (diagnosis activation)

48 Throttle sensor power supply

49 Control unit power supply

50 Ground (control unit)

51 Crank angle sensor (120 degree signal)

52 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)

53 Vehicle speed sensor

54 Throttle valve switch (idle connection pt)

56 Throttle sensor output signal

57 Throttle valve switch power supply

58 Battery power supply

59 Control unit power supply

60 Ground (control unit)

101 Injector #1

103 Injector #3

104 Fuel pump terminal voltage control output

105 Injector #2 107 Injector ground

108 Injector ground

109 Injector power supply

110 Injector #5

112 Injector #4

114 Injector #6

115 exhaust gas sensor heater ground

116 injector ground

[paulR32gtr]

Awesome thanks Rekin - only diff I expect is a different code for each AFM - ill see how I go.

Edited November 12, 2007 by paulR32gtr

[GeeTR]

I think one of my AFM's is on the blink.

Hey man,

I hear that the ECU takes the mean average signal from both AFM's. So Find the GOOD AFM, and run the output into BOTH inputs pins at the ECU as a temp fix.

[paulR32gtr]

Cheers for the tip.

For the record the GTR codes look the same as those for the rb20

Thanks for the help guys

[paulR32gtr]

Sweet temp fix Micheal - ran a wire from pin 27 to 35 and problem gone

[GeeTR]

Sweet temp fix Micheal - ran a wire from pin 27 to 35 and problem gone

Np - Good Times

[WHITEBEAST]

This could be my problem im having also. Dry solder joints in AFM's. I was thinking of replacing the O2 sensors, is this test a good indication if the O2 sensors are anygood?