Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

'M-spec' is the 'luxury' version 34 GTR's. There's no such thing as an 'm-spec' 33. It's called 'type m'.

I'm not too sure about the 33 lights, but on the 32's the lights are very dull and 'shit'. Are your headlights dirty? Maybe give them a clean to let more light come out.

I think 33 headlights normally take H1 globes, but it would be best to wait till someone with a 33 come and confirm that for you. You could always take the globes out and check the globe for any markings. Should say what they are on the base of the globe.

type m or m-spec basically stands for luxury but i think you also get things like gtr brakes. atleast thats what was on my r32gtst type-m/m-spec anyways. not 100% on this but with the 33's i think the series 2 had better lights but im sure someone with a 33 can confirm.

  • 3 months later...

im not sure myself about the type-m/m-spec thing but i do no that series 2 R33 have better lights then the series 1 R33's as my m8 has a series 1 and my series 2 headlights are clear and not yellow and foggy...ive changed my globes in my low and high beams and are both H1's any H1's will fit perfect...but im still trying to figure what screw does what for the low beam adjustment as i want my low beams a touch higher they only form a circle infront of my car about 3-4 metres infront...any help wit that 1 would b sweet!

i do no that series 2 R33 have better lights then the series 1 R33's as my m8 has a series 1 and my series 2 headlights are clear and not yellow and foggy

Series 2 Head lights are not better, the reason they look better is because series 1 head lights have been around for a couple of years longer, so they are bound to be old and dirtier, and have that yellow foggy look.

Dan

Yeh, that yellow foggy look is shit. How do I get rid of it? Any ideas? I got rid of most the foggy stuff, but its still yellow. What can I do, other than replace them?

theres sooooooo many threads about this problem. anyway, theres many solutions to this, but the cheapest would be toothpaste, but like all other solutions, it will go back to yellow after awhile, so u just have to keep cleaning them from time to time.... OR get new headlights

Yeh, that yellow foggy look is shit. How do I get rid of it? Any ideas? I got rid of most the foggy stuff, but its still yellow. What can I do, other than replace them?

yeh oothpast is a solution but there is also a restoration kit that they sell at super cheap auto about $20 last tim i looked was thinking of getting it but not got round to it aye.

Cheers

Dan

Series 2 Head lights are not better, the reason they look better is because series 1 head lights have been around for a couple of years longer, so they are bound to be old and dirtier, and have that yellow foggy look.

Dan

dude when series 2's came out they redesigned the whole headlight again as they have a new bonnet to fit to. having designed a new lense to them aswell! still use the same globes but the lense's help a bit more as they are clearer

Ryan

The only difference between S2 and S1 headlights apart from their size is that S1 headlights have a slightly opaque lenses in between the outer cover and the inner assembly whereas S2 headlights don't. The refraction/reflection plate is pretty much the same for both, so that's why S1 headlights seem to be a bit dimmer as it has an extra lense that blocks some of the light from filtering through

Edited by POLICE
The only difference between S2 and S1 headlights apart from their size is that S1 headlights have a slightly opaque lenses in between the outer cover and the inner assembly whereas S2 headlights don't. The refraction/reflection plate is pretty much the same for both, so that's why S1 headlights seem to be a bit dimmer as it has an extra lense that blocks some of the light from filtering through

yeh i no that the lighting colour is different, but we are talking about the actual plastic piece on the headlight, i no they where redisigned, but they still havent been around longer so they are bound to have not discoloured yet. im sure that the series 1 headlights where clear when they first where sold.

Dan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...