Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, like the title says, anybody suffered water in the cabin from the air con? it will empty if i go hooking around a right hand corner.

doesn't seem to be a block in the pipe.. doesn't matter what settings, if the air con is on, after about 35min or so i get a wet foot :P

Anybody have a fix for it?

Please help..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193635-air-con-water-leak/
Share on other sites

Your evaporator drain is blocked causing moisture to build up and fill ur cabin, any air-con system builds up moisture which leaks through the evap drain.

in not sure with the skylines but most drains are on the firewall some of them are near the chassis rail.

You prob have noticed water leaking from the back of a bus when ur driving in traffic this is the same thing

bunch of butt heads! :laughing-smiley-014:

1. I know about condences and moisture in air cons..

2. i know water comes off a bus.. I DRIVE COACHES!

3. Yes Geoff, Turbo is big :worship: , but dump pipe is insulated, drain pipe does not seem to be melted or blocked!

4. As stated, Water does empty when i hook around a right hand corner with some urgentcy.

5. Water ONLY comes AFTER the air-con is turned on..

any other wise cracks got a better solution?

ohh Geoff, the lsd is goin, but it not as strong as the old one..

Well it was out of the race car.....but hey, it keeps you going.

Alright, just had to make sure mate. There has to be something clogged and that would be around that water drain. Not sure if it can be pulled so maybe use something flexible to shove into it to see if you can clear it. There is only one drain on the system, other than around your foot once it is full :(

yea mate, i have come to the same conclusion!

either i fix it, or just keep freaking out the old ladys when i go screaming around certain corners ;) !

as for the diff, it sure come in handy! thats the problem when the car is a true daily driver!

I'll keep you posted as to my fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...