Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well as you may or may not know, after having my car off road for two weeks getting a new turbo fitted and getting it back last Friday, this Monday came round and an old lady in a Kingswood decided it might be a good idea to run a red light and write off my car! :wave: Now my insurance has offered me to buy back my wreck for a cost of $3500 and I'm deciding if it's worthwhile or not. Basically the engine and everything is fine so I've made a quick list of what I could strip and sell. Anyone able to tell me in total what I'd be expecting back realistically if I did buy it back aqnd strip it?

Here's the list...

Engine/gearbox (done approx 130,000k)

GT30 Turbo (in RB25 housing) - brand new, only 300k's

Diff

Doors

Mirrors

Rims/tyres

All the interior/speedo

Fuel pump

Turbo back Trust PE-II exhaust

Boot/spoiler

Rear bar

etc....

Any more ideas of what I can salvage let me know...

And finally, a pic of my baby, it really hurts to see her like this :)

post-21349-1195106269_thumb.jpg

Edited by heslo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193808-a-little-advice-please/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if you sell the engine and box, that should get you your $3500 back.. rest is profit.

my 33 got rear ended, and i bought it back to strip it down.

i've made probably 7k, and ive still got the gearbox, diff, rims, most of the interior, etc..

if you've got the time, and not desperately after the money, i'd say go for it, its not a quick or easy job though.

Hi mate - you can sell the wheel hubs/discs/brakes to someone with an s13/s14 who wants a 5stud conversion ... probably a good $500-$800 there.

Couple of hundred for the seats, etc. Space saver wheel.... um, lots of other bits you can sell. As someone else mentioned you'd get close to $3500 for the engine/gearbox alone.

Incidentaly I'd be interested in the passenger door if the paint is a match for mine. I have a rust spot - have to get a quote but it might be cheaper just to replace the door.

geez luke.................my heart sank when i saw the pic :wave: so glad your still here with us tho :)

and may the fleas of a thousand camels infest the crotch of the woman who screwed up your day and may her arms be too short too scratch....................

:wave: Thanks Cara, the thing that killed me was when I was about to leave, some strangers came up and asked if it was my car. Of course I said yes and they then told me it was one of the cleanest and nicest looking that they had seen; really tore me up inside but you are right, atleast everyone is ok

Do it Luke, unless you need the 3.5k "right now" for a new car, I would do it for sure, like someone said 3.5k for a Rb25det right there and the rest will be profit!!

All it takes is a tool set and a weekend(oh and a couple of cartons) and she'd be in bits ready to sell off! Get a big bin for crap you can't keep and sell the rest off!!

Damn Luke that sucks. Glad to hear u r ok though. Ask if they have a camera on that intersection - you might get lucky.

Yes she was a pretty girl and in fantastic nick. Such a shame.

If you have the place to store the car, and the time to do it, you could definitely make a half decent profit if it only costs $3.5k to buy back. Keep in mind that selling parts is extremely slow, but once you get your money back you are even and can sit on the rest of the parts until they sell and won't care if it takes a while.

Unfortunately Andrew, that was the first thing I asked and sadly, there is not one camera that can help me prove my case :P

Nick, it's definately moved the GTR plans forward, looking for a nice S2 or S3 33GTR so if you know of anyone selling, please let me know. Just a shame I didn't get to pick up that nice white one selling on here a month or two ago :D

yep as others have said strip it.

youll get the 3.5k back easy, plus more.

remember theres stuff like interior aswell, youll get a few hundred for the seats alone.

Edited by ted180

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...